Queulat National Park, Carretera Austral, Patagonia, Chile

Introduction

Located: 32km South from Puyuhuapi Village

This National Park covers the forested mountains all the way from Puyuhuapi to an area past the Queulat Park entrance. The park itself is full of native trees and a glacier called Queulat Hanging Glacier, which is “hanging” in a valley between two sides of the lower Andes, whereupon the ice melt falls from a great height in a narrow, but strong waterfall. The accommodation we have below is located beside the fiord and only a few kms from the Park entrance.

Although the park can be visited during the day when driving the Carretera Austral way south, or north; to enjoy it fully, a stay of a couple of nights at the lodge near the park will allow visitors to “get into” the tranquillity and beauty of the natural nature in this area. From a base near the park, you will be able to walk the trails and enjoy a full day, or more, and then retreat back to the cosy comfort of your lodge for the night.

Parques en Región de Aysén

Parque Nacional Queulat

Queulat means 'Sound of Waterfalls' in the Chono people’s language. This park was first seen in the eighteenth century by Jesuits searching for the mythical City of the Caesars. Today, Queulat National Park, near Puyuhuapi, is admired by thousands of visitors each year, who are attracted by its beautiful evergreen and Andean Patagonian forests, its waterfalls, fjords, jagged rock walls, abundant rivers, and famous hanging glacier or «Ventisquero Colgante,» which can be spotted from the Carretera Austral.

Puyuhuapi, Carretera Austral,
Patagonia, Chile

Introduction

Location: 46km South from La Junta, but 18km south from El Pangue.

Puyuhuapi village occupies a narrow piece of land sandwiched between a lake and a sea-filled fiord. The village itself has a Germanic style regarding its buildings and general feel.

The village was founded when, in 1935, two Germans, Otto Uebel and Karl Ludwig settled here having escaped the looming Second World War in Europe. At this time Chile operated a colonization policy whereby those who were adventurous enough to move to “pioneer” country would be given land to make it productive and habitable.

They decided on a piece of land at the end of the Puyuhuapi fiord and with help from people who came from the island of Chiloe, and they began the process of cutting down virgin, native forest and constructing buildings as well as creating pastures for animals to graze. Unsurprisingly, these constructions were based upon those in their native Germany, which is why, in many parts of southern Chile so many buildings have an older, German appearance to them.

Two more Germans arrived, and these were Walter Hopperdietzel and Ernesto Ludwig. This small group of pioneers slowly, but surely, cut down the forest with their axes, machetes, and knives (no power tools in those days). However, the only access routes were via the sea, until the arrival of the Carretera Austral road during the late 80’s. More manpower came in from Chiloe and the settlement was recognised as an official “town” or village. To-day the population is between 50 to 1,000 inhabitants.

What’s Here?

Apart from the quiet, mystic setting, the principal places of interest are the hanging Queulat Glacier, about 21.5kms south of the village, and the Termas de Puyuhuapi, now called Puyuhuapi Lodge – a modern, upmarket hotel and hot springs spa, located on the opposite side of the fiord to where the Carretera Austral passes.

Access to the hotel is only by passenger ferry from a pick-up point beside the road at 12.8km south of Puyuhuapi. This is marked and on the right side of the road if you are heading north to south. Obviously, if you are heading south to north the entrance point is on your left 12.8km before getting to Puyuhuapi.

Puerto Raul Marin, Carretera Austral, Patagonia, Chile

Introduction

Located: 73km West from La junta

Puerto Raul is a tiny fishing village and a settlement of a few houses, located about 73km due west from La Junta. The road to get here is unpaved. This is a place for a “total cut off” from society and the “real World”. This is where there is no electricity at night, where the stars are bright, the bird song fills the morning air, and the gentle lapping of water are the only sounds that interrupt the stillness.

The village sits n the edge of the edge of the 204,000 acre Tic Toc Marine Park, home to pristine beaches and numerous varieties of marine life.

On the eastern side of the village is the Pitipalena Fiord where there are often dolphins, penguins and occasionally orcas. The fiord, which is home to the Palena river, flows directly into the Pacific Ocean.

The Palena River is known for its excellent salmon and trout fishing, but also offers great kayaking and rafting. In the distance is the Corcovado National Park covering 726,000 acres.

Parque Nacional Melimoyu

Access: From Puerto Raul Marin Balmaceda (sea navigation required)

Along Melimoyu’s coasts, the Blue Whales are the protagonists. It’s estimated that 10% of the world’s population of cetaceans migrate to the Corcovado Gulf during the Southern Hemisphere summer to feed on Krill.

Dozens of rivers flow from the area’s glaciers into its channels and fjords, bringing organic material from the forests and bogs and giving life to an aquatic ecosystem rich with biodiversity where an abundance of wildlife makes its home.

This pristine habitat in Cisnes features incredible landscapes dominated by the imposing Melimoyu Volcano (which means “four pieces” in Mapudungún). It was once considered to be a possible entry point to the mythical - and perhaps enchanted - City of the Caesars.

Note: The information above is supplied by the Tomkins Foundation.

La Junta, Carretera Austral, Patagonia, Chile

Introduction

Located: 143km South from Futaleufu

La Junta is located more-or-less halfway down the Carretera Austral between Puerto Montt and Coyhaique. It sits on the edge of the National Lago Rosselot Reserve.

What’s Here?

As with many of the villages along the Carretera Austral, the principal attraction and activities revolve around nature. Therefore, here at La Junta there are opportunities for fly fishing as well walks into the forested areas. There is also the Tepaluma, artisan beer distillery to visit where you can try the “Kawiñ” beer.

Futaleufu, Carretera Austral,
Patagonia, Chile

Introduction

Located: 151km South-east from Chaiten

Futaleufu is situated up in the mountains only 10km from the border with Argentina and beside the famous Futaleufu river. It is a small village surrounded by mountains and unspoilt, natural beauty. It is well known as a base from which to raft the Futaleufu, one of World’s most challenging rivers for rafting down the rapids.

What’s Here?

Futaleufu offers a base from which to relax and enjoy mother nature in a very remote “corner” of the World. Typically, this is a place sought after by those wishing to pursue activities such as trekking, zip wire, horse-riding, bird watching, fly fishing, canyoning and white-water rafting.

The village is surrounded by nature. Apart from the famous Futaleufu river, known for its challenging white water rafting, there is also the Lonconao Lake and the Espolon river and lake, both of which are ideal for trout fishing.

Chaiten, Carretera Austral,
Patagonia, Chile

Introduction

Located: 66km South from Caleta Gonzalo

Chaiten is a small village founded in 1933 by the then President of Chile, Arturo Alessandri, with a view to “populating” the remote territory of Chile. In 2002 its population had grown to 4,625 inhabitants.

It is served by ferry from Quellon (92km south from Castro) Chiloe Island and light aircraft from Puerto Montt. The ferry takes cars and involves an overnight crossing with only half reclining seats for passengers to “sleep” in.

Volcanic Eruption

Unfortunately, in 2008, the village suffered from the aftermath of the eruption of the nearby Chaiten volcano. One result of this eruption was the explosion of volcanic ash into the atmosphere reaching Puerto Montt as well as being blown as far north and east as Buenos Aires, over 2,500km away. However, more locally the ash fell onto the surrounding forests and hills of Chaiten. This ash, combined with the nearby fast-flowing river and mixed together to create a “river of mud and ash” which broke its banks and flooded half the village, inundating houses and streets. Most of the residents were forced to leave the village and relocated to other places in Chile, however, since 2012 some people have returned.

The village has not totally recuperated but offers as a stop off for petrol (gas) and supplies. There are some simple bed and breakfast lodgings too.

What’s Here?

There is small museum, a trail up to the Chaiten volcano, as well as trails to the Alerces, the hidden waterfalls, and a place to see dolphins in the sea. If open there is also the “Termas el Amarillo”, 24kms south of Chaiten, where you can bathe in hot spring-filled pools. There are also, still visible, those houses saturated in volcanic ash and mud.

Parque Nacional Corcovado

The magnificent Corcovado Volcano stands 7,546 feet above sea level, welcoming visitors to this difficult-to-access, pristine ecosystem of evergreen forests, fjords, bays, rivers, deep valleys, and dozens of hidden lakes. The park was created thanks to Tompkins Conservation’s generous donation of more than 207,570 acres and to the incorporation of national parklands. It features vast expanses of untouched, unexplored land, including hidden corners of the Corcovado Golf and Tic Toc Bay, in Chaitén.

Caleta Gonzalo, Carretera Austral, Patagonia, Chile

What’s Here?

The Pumalin Park is the park created, and donated by Douglas Tompkins, (deceased) through the “Fundacion Pumalin”, to the Chilean nation in 2017. Douglas Tompkins made his fortune from the sale of the North Face (a company that he had started), and the Esprit clothing retail business (that he also started), and he used it to buy swathes of land in Chile and other South American countries with the ultimate aim of preserving these territories from any destruction or development.

The Park covers 402,392 sq2 hectares. Here, there are millennial-aged trees such as the Alerce, some dating back thousands of years. That reality on its own is quite “mind blowing” when you consider that it is possible to touch a living tree that started its life before the birth of Jesus Christ.

The Park is all about the natural world, an area devoid of development, aside from the small access that visitors have in order to enjoy this encounter with nature. The Park contains various trekking trails that allow penetration into the forest and to areas where you can see the hanging glaciers such as the Amarillo, the volcano Michimahuida and the Tabique hill as well as the Yelcho glacier.

Parque Nacional Pumalin Douglas Tompkins

The deep forests of Pumalín reach all the way to the fjords, creating one of the most spectacular coastlines on the planet. Hundreds of waterfalls cascade down from glaciers, falling over steep granite walls, as the Michinmahuida and Chaitén Volcanoes crown the landscape. The park’s most notable feature is the threatened Alerce (Fitzroya) tree––25 percent of Chile’s remaining Alerces can be found in this National Park. These ancient trees’ 3,000 years of life help to tell a timeless story of this pristine ecosystem, tucked in the Palena Province.

Hornopiren, Carretera Austral, Patagonia, Chile

What’s Here?

There is the Hornopiren National Park, containing the Hornopiren volcano at 1,572m, and the waterfalls of the River Negro. If you are able, and have the time, there are the natural hot springs of Cahuelmo, Porcelana, Pichicolo and if you can get on a boat there is Llancahue hot springs located on an island in the fiord.

However, in short, the village is surrounded by natural, native forest on steep mountain sides, and at the tip of the Comau fiord.

Parque Nacional Hornopiren

Hornopirén National Park, “snow oven” in Mapudungún, forms part of the regional ecosystem of evergreen temperate rainforests. It is known for its rich biodiversity, high levels of endemic species, and thousands-of-years-old trees. This park is part of the World Biosphere Reserve of Temperate Rainforests of the Austral Andes. It features nearly 22,240 acres of Alerce trees. The Hornopirén Volcano, although not within park limits, crowns this landscape of mountain valleys sculpted by snowdrifts, lakes, lagoons, and rivers such as the Puelo Chico, the Ventisquero, and the Blanco, which flows into the Comau Fjord, in Huailahué.

Puerto Montt, Carretera Austral, Patagonia, Chile

Introduction

Located: 1,025km south from Santiago

Located at the end of mainland Chile prior to the start of the Carretera Austral, Puerto Montt is also at the foot of Chile’s lake region. Served with regular, daily flights from Santiago with a flight time of around 2hrs, it is therefore an option for the first night prior to the start of your Carretera Austral adventure, or if you intend to venture out to explore Chiloe Island for the day and / or places such as Puerto Varas, only 22km away, and the Llanquihue lake.

Parque Nacional Alerce Andino

The trees of Alerce Andino National Park come from an old and storied lineage. This regional ecosystem remained isolated from the glaciers that covered the area 12 thousand years ago. Today, its forests are a global icon of endemic fauna––one in three species in this forest is not found anywhere else on the planet. Vertical walls of granite surround the park’s fifty or so lagoons, and its rugged geography has long protected millennia-old Alerce (Fitzroya) trees that grow over more than half of the park’s surface. This priceless ecosystem can be found south of Lake Chapo and is classified as a Biosphere.

Chiloe Island

Almost within “touching distance” so to speak, is the green and rural island of Chiloe, which is south west from Puerto Montt. If you have time to visit Chiloe, you will need a couple of nights minimum unless you want to do an “express” day trip. The drive time to Ancud to the north of the island is about 2hrs from Puerto Montt, which includes a 40min ferry ride. And, to Castro, the capital of the island, the drive time will be closer to 3hrs from Puerto Montt. Firstly, you need to drive to a place called Pargua, 60km south west from Puerto Montt and from where the many ferries depart for the crossing over to Chacao on Chiloe Island.

Jesuit Churches

Chiloe is known for is numerous Jesuit churches, entirely constructed from wood and covered in small wooden tiles. There are also marine animals such as penguins and sea lions to see on its western, Pacific coast and the picturesque, brightly-coloured houses on stilts around Castro.

What’s Here?

Apart from being the northern start point for the Carretera Austral, this is the embarkation port for the Navimag ferry that operates between Puerto Montt and Puerto Natales (for Torres del Paine), which also takes passengers. It also has a yacht marina and popular market called Angelmo, where small retailers sell hand-made textiles, food and wooden products.

Puerto Varas, Carretera Austral, Patagonia, Chile

Introduction

Located 22km north from Puerto Montt, Puerto Varas has a village atmosphere and style, situated by the large Llanquihue lake with direct views to the imposing snow-covered Osorno Volcano. If you decided to start the Carretera Austral from here, you would follow the southern side lake road before passing through a native forest and then pass by the shores of a pretty fiord to get to Puelo and then Hornopiren. Puelo is 125km from Puerto Varas and Hornopiren is a further 90km, therefore, the drive from Puerto Varas to Hornopiren is 215km, half of which is on unpaved road, which means slower average speed. The overall drive time would be around 3hrs, or more, if adding in stopping off time.

What’s Here?

Puerto Varas is one of a number of early settler villages, with a Germanic past. It is also a base from where you can explore the perimeter around the large Llanquihue lake, go halfway up the Osorno Volcano by car, to the ski centre, for spectacular long-distance panoramic views, visit the Vicente Perez Rosales National Park, see the powerful “Saltos de Petrohue” (waterfalls) and the emerald-coloured Petrohue lake.

On the north-western shores of Lake Llanquihue are the early settler, German-style villages of Frutillar and Puerto Octay. If you are into activities there is rafting on the River Petrohue, fly fishing, hiking and tree zip wire routes.

Accommodation Carretera Austral,
Sector 1, Puerto Montt to Coyhaique

Introduction

Most accommodation along the Carretera Austral will be in the lodge style. This is to say a construction of natural wood on the exterior and interior with soft, warm lighting, open fireplaces; and natural, woven materials often as part of the interior decoration. However, the level of lodge will vary between the very rustic, simple level right up to the top-end luxury level with those considered “in between” too. As well as lodges there are, in the main cities, the more traditional hotel-style options.

Here at Experience Chile, we make it part of our business to know as many accommodation options as possible at a personal level.

We do not, and cannot, rely on what is published on the internet (and nor should you) because every hotel, lodge and bed and breakfast feels that they are “the best”, which often, is just not the case.

We discover what a place is really like with regular inspection visits, ideally staying overnight in order to get as good idea as possible about the overall feeling that our clients may experience should they stay at that particular place.

We have categorised the accommodation options in a way that we feel best defines each hotel, as well as stipulate if the property has been “inspected” and / or “approved” by us. If a hotel has not been inspected, it means only that. If a place has not received our “approved” label it just means that we do not feel we cannot “overly recommend” that place, but it may be perfectly good.

Activities from Punta Arenas, Patagonia

Punta Arenas, Patagonia

Welcome to Punta Arenas

Punta Arenas (meaning Sandy Point) is the southernmost city on Chile's continental territory - a 4hr flight from Santiago. Sat beside the historic Straits of Magellan, a sea channel connecting the Atlantic Ocean with the Pacific Ocean. The city centre resembles the architecture found in northern and eastern Europe, which of course is in line with the early European settlers from the Croatia, Serbia and Scotland. The airport here is the main entry point into Chile´s stunning Patagonia, also to Antarctica, and the seaport is the embarkation point for cruises to Ushuaia in Argentina. The city is a relatively clean, modern city with an unusual history based on maritime trade, sheep ranching, coal mining and more recently petroleum extraction.

What we Offer

We can arrange itineraries that include a logistical rest night in Punta Arenas only, or to be able to enjoy some of the activities that originate from here such as seeing the penguins on Santa Magdalena Island (half day), King Rey penguins on Tierra del Fuego (long full day), whale watching as either a long full day, or a night on an island in the middle of the marine park.

Typically, you will need two nights in Punta Arenas to be able to do most of these activities and we would build Punta Arenas into your itinerary pre or post Torres del Paine.

We also offer fabulous Patagonia cruises to Ushuaia and Fly-Cruise combination to Antarctica from Punta Arenas.

How to Get to Punta Arenas

Arrivals to Punta Arenas are usually from Santiago on a flight that takes about 4hrs if direct and 4.5hrs if there has been a stop off at Puerto Montt.

The other ways to get here are by way of the Australis Cruise ship from Ushuaia in Argentina, by a 12hr bus trip from Ushuaia also or a flight from Puerto Williams (Chilean territory opposite Tierra del Fuego and the other side of the Beagle Channel to Ushuaia) or even a long ferry boat trip also from Puerto Williams.

History

Punta Arenas was officially founded in 1848 when the previous, earlier-established settlement, was relocated to its current position. It is the Southernmost city on the American continent. Prior to the opening of the Panama Canal in 1914 Punta Arenas was a vital and major seaport for shipping coming from Europe to the western side of the Americas via the Strait of Magellan (a natural sea passage between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans avoiding the need to circumnavigate the longer and more arduous journey around Cape Horn), although the Clipper class ships still used the Drake Passage around Cape Horn in order to have enough space for navigational position manoeuvres.

Today, in terms of its maritime importance it is a key stop over for large cruise ships and also the departure point for maritime cruises to Tierra del Fuego and Ushuaia.

The city of Punta Arenas also remains an important fishing port and Chilean Naval base. Punta Arenas is also still a highly important centre for the local wool and lamb trade with the principal exporters operating from here and sending their produce all over the World.

Over your body skin: an under vest (long sleeved if possible) made, ideally, from synthetic fibres so it dries quickly. If very cold weather (ie early spring, winter months or autumn) then thermal underwear made from synthetic fibres. The reason for synthetic fibres is because when you are walking several hours you will build up a sweat and your under garments will get wet, this then gets cold when you stop and will make you cold unless the wet material dries quickly. Cotton does not dry quickly, whereas synthetic material will dry more quickly.
Over your under vest: a breathable top such as a fleece.
Over your fleece: a waterproof windbreaker over jacket.
For your legs: trekking pants, resistant to rain and wind, but made from a breathable material otherwise you will sweat. Jeans are NOT good as they can get wet and not dry.
Over your trekking pants: waterproof shell pants to go over your trekking pants in the event of heavy rain.
For your feet: wool or synthetic socks. Waterproof trekking boots with ankle support and none-slip sole. If new make sure you break them in prior to using them on a trek.
For your hands: gloves. Close to glaciers it can be very cold.
For your head: a warm hat (not a jockey cap), sunglasses and sun-protection cream and a headband to keep your ears warm when not using the hat.
For your personal use: a back pack for food, water and clothes.
For your safety: a battery-operated torch for when power is out or if you are arriving to a refugio in the dark. Take with you during the trek extra water and snacks. Prepare for all weather conditions and dress for the outdoors. Do NOT go off the trail because if you have the slightest incident such as twisting an ankle, you may not be found.

Places of Interest in and around Punta Arenas, Patagonia

The Maggiorino Borgatello Museum

Introduction

This is a museum that illustrates the history of when various indigenous people lived in the region.

The Salesian order, which landed in Punta Arenas in 1887, initiated the task of collecting evidence of the various indigenous cultures who previously lived in the area with the aim of creating a museum. It would serve as a legacy for future generations to learn about the expressions and ways of life of native peoples, their environment, and the colonization process. Therefore, the museum was created in 1893.

Faithful to a meticulous work, the various rooms in the museum reflect the cultures of the Onas, Tehuelches, Yámanas and Alacalufes, peoples as well as the suffering they endured upon the arrival of the Spanish colonizers and then the European pioneers.

In turn, the museum has areas dedicated to pioneers, including the time of the gold rush that marked the region at the end of the 19th century.

On the other hand, there is a careful collection of personal objects of Father Alberto De Agostini, a great explorer of the region, and the instruments of the first meteorological observatory in Punta Arenas.

The Nao Victoria Ship

Introduction

This was the first ship to circumnavigate the world!

The Nao Victoria Museum is, effectively a dry dock, located on the outskirts of the city in the direction towards the airport. However, despite being a bit off the beaten track, the Museum is easily accessible.

This is a nautical museum with replica ships sat in dry dock (as in on the ground and not in the water), that played a significant part in the history of Punta Arenas and southern Patagonia. One ship, the Nao Victoria, is a replica of the one commanded by Hernando de Magallanes, who, in 1520, participated in the expedition that discovered the Strait that was named after him “Magallanes Strait”.

Fort Bulnes (Fuerte Bulnes)

Introduction

Fort Bulnes an historic fort, created by the Spanish colonizers in 1843 in order to protect their settlement from any unwelcome visitors.

It is a small place with cannon mounts and some old cannons in place.

The location has undeniable advantages from a strategic, defence, point of view, but it did not allow for a full settlement of the area because the nearby land was completely unsuitable for agriculture. This reality motivated the foundation, in 1848, of Punta Arenas, 60km north, where the entire colony of the Fort was transferred.

The Sara Braun Municipal Cemetery

Introduction

Cemetery’s are not a usual “place of interest”, however, in South America they draw in visitors because of the ornate mausoleums and, often, the historical names that can be found on the tombs.

The Punta Arenas (Sara Braun Cemetery) is no exception and here there are numerous, European names that played an integral part in the development of Punta Arenas and other settlements throughout Patagonia. The cemetery silently recounts the history of the city.

The construction of the Cemetery is part of the historical context of European migration to the Magallanes Region and Chilean Antarctica at the end of the 19th century. The desire to come to this land, so far away from everywhere else was motivated by the discovery of gold in Tierra del Fuego. This was followed by the introduction of the sheep farming.

The Chilean government also enticed adventurers, by way of free land, to come here for the purposes of settlement and development of economic activities as a way for Chile to claim this as its territory.

In this place the remains of these pioneers, settlers, and merchant’s rest, leaving behind an historical record of the various nationalities of immigrants who came to the region and that make up the Magellan culture today.

How to get to Punta Arenas,
Arrivals and Transfers

Hotel Accommodation, Punta Arenas, Patagonia

During our inspections we ask the hotel owners if we can stay overnight at the hotel. We ask this because staying overnight is vastly different to just popping in with a quick visit. We like to know what the noise pollution is, what the breakfasts are like, how comfy the beds are, what the staff are like.

Therefore, if you see “inspected & approved” we are saying that we feel the hotel is perfectly good. If it does not have “approved” it means we have not stayed overnight or we feel it is not up to the level that our clients will require.

The reason we have a selected number of hotels that we choose to work with is because we regularly visit the hotels in Puerto Natales in order to know what they are really like. We cannot rely on the hundreds of often “suspect” reviews published in the internet. Therefore, we try to promote the better hotels that we know will make your trip more enjoyable. However, if you see that we have “inspected” a particular hotel, this does NOT mean that we recommend it necessarily. The ones we recommend are “approved”.

Puerto Williams, Patagonia, Chile

It is the southern-most populated village on Earth (prior to reaching Antarctica), located on the northern coast of “Isla Navarino” (Navarino Island) about 50km east from Ushuaia on the opposite side of the Beagle Channel. Founded in 1953 it has a population of around 2,000 people and is a highly important Chilean Naval base.

Puerto Williams, meaning Williams Port, was named after an Irish Captain called John Williams. The village comprises a number of simple, private houses, a plaza, an airport for air connection to Punta Arenas, a small yacht marina and houses for naval personnel.

Navarino Island is an untouched, remote island in the southern tip of South America. Beyond its southern shores is the famous Cape Horn, for which in summer months there are private yachts that offer charter trips to the area (note that these trips can take several days and in rough weather).

The island stands out for its biological diversity and untouched landscapes, as well as retaining a great treasure: the presence of the ancestral, ethnic Yagán people - one of the most rudimentary indigenous cultures with regards to its material development, but at the same time one of the most surprising with its oral tradition, and in its ability to survive around glaciers, canals, strong winds and generally difficult environmental conditions.

To explore the island and area around Puerto Williams it is best to come in the Chilean summer months of January and February and book the services of a local guide. Hotel accommodation is basic, except for one hotel outside the city.

Puerto Williams is connected to mainland Chile by air and car ferry from Punta Arenas (350km north) or by zodiac dingy from Ushuaia, via Puerto Navarino (directly opposite Ushuaia).

Puerto Williams, How to Get Here, Transfers and Arrivals

Introduction

Considering that Puerto Williams is on an Island the only way to get to this very small settlement is by boat or plane.

Location

Strategically located, Isla Navarino is 300kms south-east from Punta Arenas, but only 7kms south of Ushuaia crossing Canal Beagle, and 1,000 kms from Antarctica, being the closest, populated place to the white continent.

How to Get to Puerto Williams

Considering Puerto Williams is on a remote island there are only two ways to get here. One is flying in and the other is on a boat.

Zodiac Dinghy

There are trips across the Beagle channel, subject to weather conditions, in a covered zodiac dinghy. Maximum 12 passengers.

The trip takes about 30 minutes and departs from the jetty in Ushuaia across to Puerto Navarino, which is about 50km from Puerto Williams. Therefore, there is a road transfer to get to Puerto Williams and this, allowing for difficult terrain, takes about 1.5hrs.

However, in order to make this journey you need to be very flexible regarding dates and have built in spare days in the event that you cannot cross, and you need to stay extra nights in Ushuaia.

Places of Interest, Puerto Williams, Patagonia

Description

The “Dientes de Navarino” (means the Teeth of Navarino) is the name given to a series of jagged “teeth like” mountain peaks on the Navarino Island. This is a southern-most trekking trail in the World. On clear days from the highest part of the trail there are great views of the Beagle Channel and even the Cape Horn Island.

However, it is not for the “light trekker”, no, on this trek you need to be fully equipped for bad weather and any dangerous situation. Therefore, you need to have the right clothing and the right gear and, ideally, a guide.

Along the trail there are areas cleared for camping, in the event that you need to shelter from the elements. The weather can be extreme for long periods.

Description

To get to the Virgin Waterfall you walk from the central plaza along a street called “Lewaia” in a south-west direction until you get to the street called Muñoz. From here the path turns west along the street called “Cabo de Hornos”, whereupon at the end of this street is the “Cascada” street. There will be the Plaza Virgin, then, going in a north westerly direction, towards the airport, there will be a continuation of the street called “Cascada”. If you take this street and walk 3km you will come to the start of the trail for the “Dientes de Navarino” where there is a marker that says “Hito” 1 (76km). Take this trail head to the right and you will come across another marker for the trail to “Cerro La Bandera”.

From the main Puerto Williams Plaza to the trail head will take about 40 mins to 1hr walking.

Then, about 3km up the trail there is a panoramic view over Puerto Williams, the Beagle Channel, Tierra del Fuego Island to the north, and to the south the “Dientes de Navarno” (Teeth of Navarino).

Trek Punta Gusano, Laguna Zañartu & Bahía Róbalo

The start of this trek is on the beach close to the airport, 3.1km west from Puerto Williams.

The trail is on a bank of Puerto Williams bay where there are costal and marine birds. From here there is a view back to Puerto Williams, the Yacht Club “Micalvi” and the “Dientes de Navarino” in the distance.

Laguna Zañartu is located on a peninsula where the immediate landscape is that of pampa and Humedal. The view from here is of a view of the Beagle channel, and in the distance on the other side the city of Ushuaia and the Andes mountains.

Puerto Williams Accommodation

Introduction

Puerto Williams is a very small village. In terms of accommodation there are a handful of bed and breakfast offerings and these vary from the very basic to the acceptable.

However, there are two, one could say “proper hotels” here. One is called Lakutaia and the other is Errante Lodge.

The Lakutaia lodge is located 2km west from the village on the road to the airport. It is a simple hotel, but modern. The 24 bedrooms rooms are spacious, warmly decorated and the hotel offers a restaurant, bar and activities.

Places of Interest, Ushuaia, Patagonia

This is, perhaps one of the historically most famous stretches of water in the World. Made famous by Charles Darwin when he circumnavigated the World in search of new eco systems and plant life, his ship was called HMS Beagle and this stretch of water was named after his ship.

It is a relatively narrow channel of water that passes from the Southern Atlantic Ocean on the east and into the Pacific Ocean on the west. Ushuaia, in Argentina, sits on the northern shore of the channel and the small village of Puerto Williams, in Chile, sits on the other side, on the southern shore.

It is possible to cross the Beagle Channel in a rib-zodiac dinghy to get over to Puerto Williams in Chile (by previous arrangement and subject to local weather conditions). All cross border regulations apply.

Tierra del Fuego National Park Ushuaia

Introduction

Ushuaia offers visitors a chance to enter the Tierra del Fuego National Park. Options in the park include trekking, canoeing and a ride aboard the “End of the World” train. Information about these activities is further below.

If you have some time on your hands then a visit here is one option to see nature at the end of the Southern continent.

This National Park is located about 12km west from Ushuaia city centre at the end of the ruta 3 and the southernmost park in all of Argentina. Created in 1960, it is the only National Park in Argentina that contains within its boundaries a marine element, with views of the Beagle Channel; coastal forests (of Antarctic Beech, Lenga Beech and Coihue) lakes, lagoons, peat bogs and mountainous landscape. It covers just short of 70,000 hectares, within which there are numerous types of flora and fauna. It is encircled to the west by the Andes and Chilean border, to the north by Lake Fagnano, to the south by the Beagle Channel – and to the east is the city of Ushuaia.

Among the fauna are guanacos, foxes, beavers (which are not native to the area and were introduced), rabbits, and muskrat. There is also a variety of bird life including kelp goose, torrent duck, black-browned albatrosses, the steamer duck, oystercatchers and seagulls at the coastal area and in the forest, there are austral parakeets, woodpeckers and the austral thrush. High above there is often the Andean condor.

Visitor Centre

At the visitor centre there is a good view of the lake Acigami as well as the source of the river Lapataia, Salmon Island and the “Cerro” Condor (Condor Summit), which is the point that divides Chile and Argentina in this area. There is also a café, snack bar and WC’s as well as a souvenir store and cultural exhibitions.

Scenery

The Tierra del Fuego National Park comprises some wonderful, natural scenery including waterfalls, mountains, glaciers, and woodland.

Getting to the Park

Ideally you will book a tour to the park with us, however, if not you can board a minibus at the junction of Maipu Avenue and Juana Fadul street, take a taxi or go in your own rent a car. Do NOT cycle because you are not permitted to ride bikes in the park.

Cost of Entry

Between 01 May to 30 September each year entry is free of charge. From 01 October to the end of February there is a cost, always in Argentine pesos (which changes frequently) and this can be paid in cash, or a well-known debit or credit card.

Where to stay

Most visitors to Tierra del Fuego National Park only spend a day or less.

However, there are four designated camping areas within the park at Río Pipo, Ensenada and Laguna Verde, Cauquenes and Laguna del Caminante on the Andorra-Oveja trek.

The first three have chemical toilets, available from November to April.

Best of all, the camp sites are completely free. If you don’t have a camper van, you can rent camping essentials in Ushuaia for a budget-friendly trip.

There is a steam train ride that is aptly named “the end of the world train” that offers visitors an opportunity to be transported through scenic sectors of the park without having to move. The train was at one time used to transport prisoners in Ushuaia. However, in 1994 it was refurbished and established as a heritage project. A new steam engine was imported from England in 1995, and another two diesel engines were brought in from somewhere else in Argentina to provide three engines to drive the train around the park. The train station is located 8km west of Ushuaia, which is 3km before the official park entry point, and operates over a distance of 5km, which it covers in about 50 minutes, one way.

Trekking in Tierra del Fuego National Park, Ushuaia, Patagonia

Observations

Inside the park there are different camping areas where you can spend the night without leaving the park, they are areas with basic services with toilets and drinking water.

The use of trekking poles is recommended, especially on tours such as Cerro Guanaco.

There are many areas of the trails that are muddy and others that are flooded with water such as peatlands, so it is important to bring waterproof shoes and spare socks to keep your feet dry.

If you do not go in your own vehicle, find out about the return times of the buses, have a taxi number on hand or go mentally to hitchhike, which is also an option.

In the summer in Ushuaia the days are very long, being clear almost until midnight. On the other hand, in winter it gets dark around 4 in the afternoon.

In Tierra del Fuego the weather conditions can change suddenly. Be prepared for cold, rain or snow even in summer. If you see that the weather it’s getting worse, start your return as quickly as possible.

Paying the entrance of the park you have the possibility of spending 48 hours inside it as long as you spend the night in it, or if you leave the park, the rangers will seal the entrance ticket and you will be able to return the next day without paying again.

If you go in your own vehicle you will not have any problem to visit Tierra de Fuego National Park. But if you arrived by public transport or hitchhiking, you will need to organize your itinerary well to get the most out of it.

Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, Patagonia, Argentina

Introduction

The city is often regarded to be the southern-most city in the World (population approx. 65,000 in 2000), however, Puerto Williams, diagonally opposite, and in Chilean territory, is further south, but is a village and therefore not a “city”.

Ushuaia is situated beside the famous Beagle channel, named after the ship Charles Darwin sailed on when he arrived to the area: HMS Beagle (HMS means His or Her Majesty’s Ship). Ushuaia is located on the southern coast of the island “Tierra del Fuego” (land of Fire), called so after the first maritime explorers to the area noticed numerous fires on the land that were ignited by the indigenous people who inhabited the island. The Tierra del Fuego is a large island, south of continental South America.

History

In 1833, when Charles Darwin came exploring the area on board HMS Beagle he encountered a tribe of people known as the “Yamana”. These Indians were known for their strikingly, paint-covered bodies.

The first time the name Ushuaia appeared in writing was when, in 1869, the English missionary Waite Hockin Stirling documented his experiences of living with the “Yamana” people. More British missionaries arrived in 1870 and established a small settlement, erecting European-style houses which were pre-built in the Falkland Islands and shipped over. One such house was for the Reverend Thomas Bridges. His house comprised of two bedrooms and a third room. The bedrooms were allocated one for the Bridges family and the other for a married “Yamana” couple, and the third room was used as the chapel. In 1871 the first official marriage was recorded and in 1872 Thomas Despard Bridges was registered as the first birth in Ushuaia to a European.

It was not until 1873 when Argentine citizens arrived to teach at the newly-constructed school and the Argentine President, Julio Argentino Roca, decided to make Ushuaia a penal colony for serious criminals. This was likely based upon the British model of using Tasmania and Australia for the same purpose of sending criminals to a point as far away as possible from the main population of the country.

However, behind this plan was also a ploy to establish an Argentine colony for Argentina to lay claim to Tierra del Fuego, which eventually became formalized in 1881 after a boundary agreement between Chile and Argentina. The plan to build the new prison also required the construction of more houses for staff and logistical support personnel. Nevertheless, it was not until 1896 when the prison was officially recognized with an Executive Order issued from President Roca whereupon it could receive its first inmates.

On the 12th of October 1884, as part of the South Atlantic Expedition, Argentine Commodore Augusto Lasserre established Ushuaia as an Argentine sub-division, with the missionaries and naval officers signing an “Act of Ceremony”. Don Felix Paz was appointed as the Governor of Tierra del Fuego, and in 1885 then he decided that Ushuaia would be the Island’s capital. However, it was not until 1904 when the Federal Government of Argentina followed through and recognized Ushuaia as the capital of Tierra del Fuego.

Ushuaia suffered several health epidemics, which were brought in by settling Europeans including typhus, whooping cough and measles. These illnesses decimated much of the native population, but because the indigenous “Yamana” people were not included in the census data the exact numbers of “Yamana” who died is not known. The first census was carried out in 1893 and recorded 113 men and 36 women living in Ushuaia (but not considering any “Yamana”). By 1911 practically all the “Yamana” people had died and the original mission was closed. However, in the 1914 census (only 21 years later) the population had grown to 1,558 inhabitants.

In 1903 a military prison opened at the nearby Puerto Golondrina, which later merged with the original public prison in 1910, and continued to operate through to 1947, when President Juan Peron closed the facility by executive order due to reports of prisoner abuse. The building continued as a storage and office facility for the Argentine Navy until the early 1990’s. Today it is the Ushuaia Maritime Museum.

Ushuaia as since attracted farming pioneers, people who settled here and built estancias from where they farmed (and still do) mainly sheep, but also cattle. More recently the city has attracted people who want to work in the tourist industry.

Today

Ushuaia is now a flourishing southern, Patagonian city. Due to its sheltered, maritime location combined with its logistical “closeness” to Antarctica its port facilities offer the ideal departure point for the numerous ships that navigate from here to the Antarctic peninsula. Also, there are Patagonia cruises between Ushuaia, via the numerous channels and fiords, to Punta Arenas in Chile (farther north) and such a trip offers the idea add-on before or after visiting Torres del Paine and / or El Calafate and El Chalten.

The city is dominated on its northern side by the tail end of the Andes mountains and on its southern shore is the Beagle Channel connecting the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. The other side of the Beagle Channel, and in clear eyesight is Chile, or the Chilean island of Navarino to be more precise, which is home to Puerto Williams.

Ushuaia is an ideal resting place prior to embarking on an Antarctic expedition, or upon returning from such a trip. There is the National Park to visit, boat trips into the Beagle Channel to see penguins, sea lions and other marine life, as well as kayaking and an off-road adventure into the back country to further experience the natural world.

Hotel accommodation varies from budget, through to moderate and up to the high end. If you have the funds, the high end offers top-level comfort and great views over the city or across the Beagle Channel whereupon the early morning sun rise is a wonderful spectacle to enjoy.

Activities from Ushuaia, Patagonia

How to Get to Ushuaia,
Arrivals and Transfers

Bus

There is a regular schedule that operates on Monday, Wednesday and Friday from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia departing each morning. It runs during the day and the trip takes about 12hrs. The route involves a ferry across the narrowest part of the Magallanes Strait between Chile and Tierra del Fuego, which is interesting because this is where the Atlantic passes through on its way to the Pacific. The crossing takes about 30 minutes, after which there is a long road trip down through the Tierra del Fuego, most of which is not particularly descriptive.

Depending on local weather conditions it is possible to get across the Beagle Channel from Puerto Williams, in Chile, which is diagonally located south east from Ushuaia. The trip requires a road transfer of about 1.5hrs from Puerto Williams to Puerto Navarino.

From here the small, covered zodiac will transport passengers to Ushuaia. The navigation takes about 45mins. However, in order to make this journey you need to be very flexible regarding dates and have built in spare days in the event that you cannot cross, and you need to stay extra nights in Puerto Williams.

Puerto Natales Patagonia, Chile

Welcome to Puerto Natales

Puerto Natales is the closest village to Torres del Paine (TDP), which is only a 1hr drive if entering TDP from the west or a 2hr drive entering from the east. It is a small, almost quaint village sitting beside the “Canal Señoret” and facing the Sound (or Fiord) of Last Hope (“Seno de Ultima Esperanza”).

It is 250km north of Punta Arenas (3hrs) and 120km south of the Laguna Amarga entrance to Torres del Paine National Park (by road) (2hrs), but only 70km by road (1hr 15min) from TDP if entering from the west.

We suggest that you consider staying in Puerto Natales to benefit from a village atmosphere, nice restaurants, and good hotels at less cost than in the Park.

Description

Puerto Natales is a small settlement located in an area surrounded by natural beauty. From the water's edge you can see at the far end of the "Fiord of Last Hope" the glaciers coming down the mountain and if you know where to look on a clear day you can also see the western part of the Torres del Paine Central Massif – the snow-covered Paine Mountain. It is a nice place to rest pre and / or post Torres del Paine. It is also an ideal base to stay at and visit Torres del Paine each day.

A good, paved road connects Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas and takes about 3hrs to drive. The road to Torres del Paine is paved as far as the border village Cerro Castillo, which takes about 50min to drive to and then a further 1hr 10min to drive the partly-paved road to Laguna Amarga in Torres del Paine. The other route from Puerto Natales to the Villa Serrano end of Torres del Paine is unpaved and takes just over one hour to drive and leads to the western entrance into Torres del Paine and the central CONAF Administration centre. This route also passes by the interesting and impressive "Milodon Cave" - a large, high ceiling cave dating back to prehistoric times.

Apart from Puerto Natales being an ideal stop-over place or an excellent base from which to enter Torres del Paine on day trips, it is also a base from which to travel to El Calafate or Punta Arenas. Accommodation in Puerto Natales at the high end is at an extremely good level.

One of the benefits to staying based in Puerto Natales is that there are the attractions of evening life such as restaurants and bars.

If you can walk down to the shore from the Church and look to your right, you will get a magnificent view of the fiord (or sound) and glaciated mountains at the end.

We offer many itineraries that include a night or more in Puerto Natales. This is an ideal place to break the road trip between Punta Arenas and Torres del Paine (TDP) as well as relax and enjoy the tranquillity of the natural fiord (see below) beside which is the village.

There are also a couple of high-end, "World Class" hotels that merit a few nights stay to enjoy what they have. Another option we offer is to create an itinerary where you are based in Puerto Natales and venture out daily to Torres del Paine either to do the W trek or to see the sights. Staying in Natales will enable you to have a single, comfortable base from which to explore the area and return back to at the end of each day.

We suggest a night in Natales upon arrival and the next day either a fast-speed zodiac into Torres del Paine, a road transfer into TDP, or just a day to rest. A typical itinerary would be 1 night Natales, 4 nights TDP, 1 night Natales or over to El Calafate, however, if you have more time more nights would be even better.

Places of Interest and Activities from Puerto Natales, Patagonia

Torres del Paine (TDP) is only one hour from Puerto Natales via the estern, Serrano entrance and two hours via the eastern, Laguna Amarga entrance. Depending on your destination, it the distance from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine can be shorter and quicker than going from one place to another within the Park.

Consequently, we say to may of our clients: consider staying in Puerto Natales all of your time and avoid the high cost of hotels within the Park.

On the basis of daily access to TDP we can suggest and include in your itinerary some, or all, of the Torres del Paine activities and places of interest below.

The Torres Trek

The Trek up to the Torres is one of the classic arms of the iconic “W” Trek in Torres del Paine. It is the leg located in the eastern sector and starts at the Torres del Paine Welcome Centre. The trek requires a lot of effort in parts and is more or less a constant uphill path right up to the base of the towers. It will take a good 4hrs up and a good 4hrs down, plus time to rest at the top, so more like a 9hr trek for the day. The transport time will be 2hrs in and 2hrs out, so it will be a long day.

The French Valley Trek

The French Valley is the trek in the middle of the famous “W” trek in Torres del Paine. This requires a start at Pudeto, roughly in the middle of TDP, in order to take the catamaran across Pehoe Lake to the hostel called Refugio Paine Grande. This navigation takes 25 minutes.

From Refugio Paine Grande the walk to Camping Italiano takes about 2.5hrs. From here the trek starts in earnest into the French Valley. Depending on where you want to get to the trek will take from here 2.5hrs to get to the end, then 2.5hrs back. The trek involves uphill sectors.

Once you return back to Camping Italiano it will be 2.5hrs back to the Refugio Paine Grande, plus the catamaran trip back to Pudeto. Therefore, the trek time will be around 10hrs (can be less of course if you do not go to the end), plus the catamaran, 1hr total time and getting in to TDP2hr and back out to Natales 2hrs. Total time 15hrs, so a very long day, but many people do this and love it.

The trek time is the same if you are inside the Park or not and getting back to your hotel in the Park can, also, take an hour. The only exception is if you are staying at the hostels along the W Trek trail and in this case you would send the night there and not require the catamaran or transport back to Natales or a hotel in Torres del Paine.

Puerto Natales How to Get Here and Transport Options

Puerto Montt is located at the southern end of the Chilean lake region and just north west of Chiloe Island and, one can say, at the northern part of Chilean Patagonia. From here there is a cargo ship called Navimag that comes to Puerto Natales. This ship also has accommodation on board for passengers and, effectively, offers a “poor mans” cruise. However, the route is through the Patagonian channels and fiords and is all a bit of an adventure and all at a much lower cost than a “normal cruise”. It also serves as an ideal way to get to Puerto Natales.

Departures are on set days of the week and involve two nights on board. Accommodation varies from private cabins with private bathrooms, to private cabins with shared bathrooms and shared cabins with shared bathrooms.

The trip will take 4 days and 3 nights.

Puerto Natales Hotel Accommodation

Introduction

We work with many types of hotels in Puerto Natales from mid-level upwards. And we will include any hotel you wish in your itinerary, however, there are a selected, few hotels that we prefer to work with.

In fact, this is the point. When travelling such a long way to South America there are two options. One is to keep all costs down, which often means sacrificing comfort and enjoyment where you sleep each night. The other is to enjoy all aspects of your trip and stay in a nice hotel, with good, comfortable, well decorated rooms and relax and enjoy that part too.

Hotel Accommodation, El Calafate

Introduction

We work with all hotels in El Calafate from mid-level upwards. And we will include any hotel you wish in your itinerary, however, there are a selected, few hotels that we prefer to work with.

Queulat National Park, Carretera Austral, Patagonia, Chile

Puerto Raul Marin Balmaceda, Carretera Austral, Patagonia, Chile

Introduction

Brief details

Can't Miss

Parques en Región de Aysén

Parque Nacional Queulat

Partner Hotels Queulat National Park

Puyuhuapi, Carretera Austral, Patagonia, Chile

Introduction

What’s Here?

Partner Hotels Puyuhuapi

Puerto Raul Marin Balmaceda, Carretera Austral, Patagonia, Chile

Introduction

Brief details

Suggested Places of Interest and / or Activities

Parque Nacional Melimoyu

Partner Hotels Puerto Raul Marin Balmaceda

La Junta, Carretera Austral, Patagonia, Chile

Introduction

What’s Here?

Partner Hotels La Junta

Futaleufu, Carretera Austral, Patagonia, Chile

Introduction

What’s Here?

Partner Hotels Futaleufu

Chaiten, Carretera Austral, Patagonia, Chile

Introduction

Brief details

Can't Miss

Volcanic Eruption

What’s Here?

Parque Nacional Corcovado

Partner Hotels Chaiten

Parque Pumalin, Caleta Gonzalo, Carretera Austral, Patagonia, Chile

Introduction

Brief details

Can't Miss

What’s Here?

Parque Nacional Pumalin Douglas Tompkins

Partner Hotels Caleta Gonzalo

Hornopiren, Carretera Austral, Patagonia, Chile

Introduction

Brief details

Can't Miss

What’s Here?

Parque Nacional Hornopiren

Partner Hotels Hornopiren

Puerto Montt, Carretera Austral, Patagonia, Chile

Introduction

Brief details

Can't Miss

Parque Nacional Alerce Andino

Chiloe Island

Jesuit Churches

What’s Here?

Partner Hotels Puerto Montt

Puerto Varas, Carretera Austral, Patagonia, Chile

Introduction

What’s Here?

Partner Hotels Puerto Varas

Introduction

Sector 1: North to South

All Sector 1 Accommodation Destinations

Puerto Varas Accommodation

Puerto Montt Accommodation

Hornopiren Accommodation

Caleta Gonzalo Accommodation

Chaiten Accommodation

Futaleufu Accommodation

La Junta Accommodation

Puerto Raul Marin Accommodation

Puyuhuapi Accommodation

Queluat Nat Park Accommodation

Puerto Chacabuco Accommodation

Coyhaique Accommodation

Featured Hotels

All Sector 1 Featured Hotels

Good Level Hotels

All Sector 1 Good Level Hotels