Valparaiso

Introduction

Prior to the opening of the Panama Canal ships would stop off at Valparaiso to offload and pick up cargo en-route to their destination, or just to rest and pickup supplies having rounded the southern Beagle Channel (near Cape Horn) before continuing towards North America. Today it is less active than in its heyday, but nevertheless still an essential port of entry and export for goods coming in and going out of the country. It is also a stop off point for the increasing numbers of cruise ships that visit Chile.

Today, tourists come not to see the port, but to wander around some of the hills opposite the port. Specifically, the hills called Concepcion and Alegre is where there is a concentration of the houses built by the English (mainly) when they were here creating port facilities for the mining industry back in the 1800’s as well as provide goods access to Santiago. Even today the original iron turnstiles for the Funicular railways, built in places like Sheffield in England, are still in use.

In many respects, a wander through these streets is like going back in time.

Description

Most of the hills of Valparaiso, of which there are 45 cerros (hill tops) rise up steeply and are covered in ramshackle-looking, simple shed-like houses. However, there are some hills that immediately opposite the main port area and this is the interesting, historic part of Valparaiso.

The hills in question are “Cerro Alegre” and “Cerro Concepcion”. Within this part of Valparaiso, the streets are steep and cobbled, and buildings are still in the architectural style from the period when they were first constructed. Walking along these narrow passages exposes a myriad of interesting exteriors that radiate individuality.

Today this sector has developed into a bohemian centre where rows of houses are painted in different, vibrant colours and small shops sell art and “artistic” fashion. It is a place that attracts artists and poets. Walking around and in between the houses is an interesting way to explore the bohemian neighbourhood offering an opportunity to see and feel some of the local life at close quarters. If you like photography, there are plenty of opportunities to take many fantastic, artistic shots. There are also a number of small, quaint and quirky restaurants where there is a “good vibe” and usually good food. Some of these restaurants have outdoor terraces, and if they face down to the Pacific there is often a great view over the port area of Valpo as well as towards the Vina del Mar coast line.

Also, around these streets you will see wonderful, large and colourful murals. It’s like “Banksy” has come to Valparaiso to holiday here. The unfortunate thing is that there is also quite a bit of tag graffiti.

In the part of Valparaiso at street level there is a sector that resembles parts of old European cities, such is the architectural style of the facades, which is no surprise because the Europeans created a Valparaiso business centre modelled on what they had known back home.

Getting Up the Hills
Getting up the hills can be done on foot, but is tiresome; by car, which is boring, or by taking one of the many funicular railway carriages. In 1883 a decision was taken to create a network of funicular railways to help people get up and down the steep hill sides.

Today there are 16 in operational order, and these have been declared National Monuments. What is interesting for the British visitors is to see the wrought-iron turnstiles with lettering that say, “made in Sheffield” and other industrially historic, British cities.

Apart from ease of transport, taking any of these funicular elevators up and / or down the hills offers a nostalgic experience and direct access to a public terrace from where there is a view over the historic Valparaiso financial district and the busy port area.

Once up there, take a walk around and then have a drink or meal at one of the restaurants from where you will get a wonderful view of the Valparaiso Bay, the docks and over to Viña del Mar.

Interesting Things to Do
One suggested funicular start point is: Ascensor Concepcion. At the top is Cafe Turri (restaurant with terrace) and around the corner is Hotel Brighton (that also has a restaurant with terrace) and La Colombina (pub) off Paseo Yugoslavia. There are also a couple of small hotels and cafes that you will pass on this walk.

The adjacent hill to Concepcion is Cerro Alegre, considered by many to be the most picturesque of the “interesting” hills. Here, there is the Yugoslav Plaza, surrounded by interesting buildings, access to the narrow Yugoslavia alley, a restaurant, terrace, Museum and access to the Funicular elevator called Parrel.

If you are a follower of Pablo Neruda, Chile Nobel Prize-winning poet in 1971, one of his houses is in Valparaiso at Ferrari 692, on the hill called “Cerro Bellavista”, but this is in another area to the Alegre and Concepcion hills. Access is from Plaza La Sebastiana, and the house is quite a way up hill. Open Jan / Feb: Tuesday to Sunday, 10:30 hrs to 18:50 hrs, rest of the year: Tuesday to Friday 10:30 hrs to 14:10 hrs and 15:30 hrs to 18:00 hrs.

Valparaiso puts on a spectacular firework display on New Year's eve, one of the best in the world. The spectacle draws in the crowds, and restaurants make a killing by charging exorbitant prices. If you can get to a viewpoint, however, the show is pretty impressive.

The Port Area
Down at the water’s edge is the Valparaiso port. This is also a fascinating place to visit to see the activity surrounding the cargo ships as they dock and then get unloaded or loaded. There is also a restaurant at the dock offering Chilean sea food dishes, with an upper terrace that overlooks the ships and boats in the dock area. Also, from here there are boat tours around the dock area. From the boat there is a special view back to Valparaiso city and they hill’s as seen from the sea, and that offers yet another perspective of the city.

One Word of Warning
Not to alarm anyone, because Valparaiso is very much a special place and the only place of significant, historic value on the coast of Chile, but, as a tourist you need to be vigilant walking the streets, and do not venture out displaying jewellery and expensive-looking watches - just to be prudent. And unfortunately watch where you walk because there is a problem of stray street dogs and they are not like cats in that cats will do their “business” in a controlled area, dogs do their “business” where they want, leaving their evidence sometimes where you want to walk.

ExperienceChile.Org can include Valparaiso in your travel itinerary, as a day trip from Santiago or for a few nights. just ask.