Carretera Austral, Self-Drive, North to South, Puerto Guadal (Lake General Cerrera) to Caleta Tortel

Puerto Guadal to Valle Chacabuco Entrance

Total: 50km

Puerto Guadal Puerto Bertrand Baker Confluence Valle Chacabuco Entrance

Route Description

Heading South from Puerto Guadal you will come across a fork in the road, or a junction and this is called “Cruce El Maiten” and shortly after this is the village called Puerto Bertrand (to your right). Once again heading south, the road will pass parallel to the River Baker. Initially you may be “confused” when you see a strong, turquoise colour behind the trunks, and branches of the trees on your right, however, this is the River Baker, known for its salmon fishing and natural beauty. The colour, depending on the light of the day, can be so strong that it is almost unbelievable.

Potential Danger

There will be an undulating sector along this stretch of road which can be “dangerous”. We say this because when two vehicles are coming in opposite directions and each is in a dip the drivers are “blind” to the oncoming vehicle that will be met, possibly head on, at the next elevated part. You need to drive moderately and NOT at speed, especially because of this possibility. The author, and owner of ExperienceChile.Org is sharing this with you because it happened to him and in his case, there was almost a fatal accident when he was driving this sector.

River Baker Waterfall Confluence

The Baker is the longest river in Chile (200km) as well as having the most volume in Chile with approximately 870 cubic metres flowing per second.

Located 12km south from Puerto Bertrand and 37km before arrival to Cochrane, is the waterfall confluence of the River Baker and the River Nef. At this point the powerful River Baker crashes down from a 10m vertically high, natural rock “wall” to the ground below whereupon it meets and mixes with the water from the River Nef which is also crashing down from another vertical point close to the River Baker. The River Neff originates in the ice field some 30km back in the Andes, and the River Baker comes out from the Lake Bertrand. To see the mix of the turquoise-blue River Baker and the grey-coloured River Neff is quite a spectacle.

Once these two rivers merge at the confluence point, they continue as the River Baker and enter the sea near Caleta Tortel.

Shortly after this stop off, on the way to Cochrane, there will be a turn off left to the Chacabuco Valley, or Patagonia National Park.

About 12km before entering Cochrane there is a turn-off left to the Patagonia National Park, part of the Thompkins environmental protection organisation. Here you can trek a number of trails and enjoy the natural beauty as well as get good-level hotel accommodation, which ExperienceChile.Org will be pleased to arrange for you.

From the turn off from the main Carretera Austral, it is about 24km to the main lodge. In this valley there are herds of Guanacos as well as flamingos and black-necked swans to see.

There is one place to stay if visiting, which we detail below, and from here you can trek on stipulated trails as well as view Tehuelche cave art dating back 7,000 years. The hotel is built, decorated, and furnished to very high standards and provides an excellent base from where to venture out into the wild and rugged terrain of raw Patagonia.

Patagonia National Park & Valle Chacubuco To Caleta Tortel

Total: 153km

Valle Chacabuco Entrance Cochrane Tortel

Cochrane

The most populated settlement between Puerto Guadal and Villa O’Higgins is Cochrane, which is about 25km past the turn off point to the Chacabuco Valley and National Park Patagonia. If you continue to Cochrane village you can fill up with fuel and get some food and snacks.

Cochrane village is fairly non-descript. Therefore, continuing on to Calate Tortel would be a good plan. Once past Cochrane the Carretera Austral passes through territory which is a mix of hills, forested areas, and open country. It is a long stretch to Caleta Tortel, whereupon when you arrive you need to park up in the car park and approach the welcome centre.

Caleta Tortel

This tiny settlement came to fame when Prince William of the United Kingdom spent a number of weeks here working as part of the Raleigh International youth educational program during his student Gap year.

The first thing you need to know is that there are no traditional roads or streets in Tortel. The entire village is built on stilts and connected with boardwalks. You need to park up in the car park and from there you walk to your hotel – carrying your bags. Therefore, you need to leave the heavy stuff back in the car and just carry a few belongings to the hotel, the walk maybe 1km at least.

Tortel is a kind of quaint place, but it is also back in Medieval times whereupon its residents throw out of their windows their rubbish! However, if you ignore that, this place is unique and totally different. A couple of nights here should be enough to see it all.

Carretera Austral, Self-Drive North to South, Coyhaique to Lake General Carrera and Puerto Guadal

Introduction

This part of the Carretera Austral cuts right into the heart of the Aysen Region of Chile. The scenery is different to the northern sector of the Austral road. It is less lush with fewer trees.

Here is the large General Carrera Lake, the remote village with no streets: Caleta Tortel and the end of the road: Villa O’Higgins.

It goes without saying that here at ExperienceChile.Org we will arrange the rent a car you will need to drive through the Patagonian forest and Andean valleys, as well as your accommodation.

From the exit point of the Balmaceda airport onto the main Carretera Austral, you come out of the main airport road and meet the main Ruta 7. Here you turn LEFT and head towards Villa Cerro Castillo on a good, paved road for 47km. This road will pass the entry sign into “Comuna de Rio Ibanez”, marked with entry posts either side of the road saying “Bienvenida a Comuna de Rio Ibañez”. The scenery here starts to look pretty and interesting, with steep valley sides of different coloured rock, and it feels like going through a canyon.

Cerro Castillo

The paved road will then arrive to a point where there are a number of sharp, meandering turns that need to be navigated as the road heads down a fairly steep hill side to the valley below where the village of Cerro Castillo is located. This section of the road reveals splendid views down the valley to the snow-covered mountains, glaciers, and valley plains of the Cerro Castillo National Park. The landscape here is impressive with jagged peaks, like “pin heads” pointing up on top of the mountain summits giving the impression that there is a castle on top of the mountain, hence the name “Castillo”, which means castle.

The route takes in the Cerro Castillo valley floor for a while until it heads up and then down into another valley that was covered in volcanic ash around 1990 - 1991. The hot ash from the Hudson Volcano eruption fell over the trees and river in this valley resulting in the devastation of most of the plant life for many years as well as blocking the river flow. However, over time the trees have recovered, and the river flow has found new routes through the valley.

Villa Cerro Castillo to Puerto Rio Tranquilo

Total: 122km

Villa Cerro Castillo Puerto Rio Tranquilo

Route Description

The next place of interest, apart from the natural scenery along all of the route, will be the village of Puerto Rio Tranquilo. This is 122km south from Cerro Castillo. After passing through the valley previously covered in volcanic ash the road will rise up fairly steeply. To your right will be a superb view down the valley.

Marble Caves

In Puerto Rio Tranquilo there is not much of particular interest in the village, but a couple of km or so the other side of the village, on the left is the entrance point into a car park beside the Lake General Carrera. It is from here where the excursions depart to take people to see the Marble Caves.

Puerto Rio Tranquilo to Puerto Guadal

Total: 59km

Rio Tranquilo El Maiten Puerto Guadal

Route Description

The Lago General Carrera runs west to east for a length of around 160km between Chile and Argentina. It is an extremely large body of water, surrounded by incredible, draw-dropping scenery.

Past the car park entrance point for the marble caves the Lake General Carrera will be in view on your left. This is the second largest lake in Chile and shared with Argentina, whereupon it is called Lake Buenos Aires. If you feel that your eyesight is deceiving you because the colour of the water in the lake is turquoise, do not be alarmed. This is the real colour.

The road will continue following the north-western arm of the lake until you get to an orange bridge. This bridge is the crossing point where the large Lake General Carrera flows through a narrow channel into another lake called Lake Beltrand.

Once across the bridge you will be following the western shores of Lake General Carrera and it is from this point that many accommodation options are located.

Eventually there will be a junction in the road called “Cruce Maiten”. This point is 50km south from Puerto Rio Tranquilo. At this road junction you need to turn left to Puerto Guadal, or continue to Puerto Bertrand, to the right. We will take you to Puerto Guadal which is 9km east of the Cruce Maiten. In this area ExperienceChile.Org will have hopefully arranged your accommodation for a few nights.

Places of Interest & Activities in this Sector Include:

Activities

Trekking, horseback riding; the Maqui waterfalls, which are up to 25m in height, the “forgotten mine” – an old zinc and copper mine where the original uninhabited buildings can be viewed; walking through native Lenga forest; fossil hunting where it is possible to find sea creature fossils that prove that this part of the world was, at one time, covered by the ocean.

The Marble Caves

In Lake General Carrera is an area of marble rock that has been eroded by the natural lapping of the waves in the lake and this action has smoothy sculptured away areas of the marble. The result is varied shapes of marble that look highly impressive when the sun is shining.

Jet Boat

There is a great, fast-speed jet boat that takes passengers on an exhilarating wild trip on the lake and up the River Leones to see the Leones Glacier.

Glaciers

If you like to see glaciers or even hike on them, then this is also possible too. It is even possible to get to the Laguna San Rafael from here to see the large San Rafael Glacier. These excursions are all managed by local suppliers, but we can prearrange them for you.

Places of Interest and Activities, Between Coyhaique and Villa O’Higgins, Carretera Austral, Patagonia

The first place of significant interest, driving south from Coyhaique, as well as Balmaceda airport, will be just past the sign that says “Bienvenido Comuna de Rio Ibañez”. The road is paved and either side the scenery begins to look “interesting and impressive”. This is part of the National Park Cerro Castillo. The village of Cerro Castillo will appear shortly after arrival at the foot of a meandering sector of the road that takes you down a steep sector. From the village the Park is down the valley.

Access: Villa Cerro Castillo

Cerro Castillo means “castle summit” and it is easy to see why this park is named so. The jagged and spiked peaks look, from a distance, to form a castle-like silhouette. The highest Cerro Castillo peak lies 7,605 feet above Coyhaique and Río Ibáñez, and in the area surrounding it, you’ll find a trekking circuit that has been named one of the most beautiful in all Chile.

The Lenga and Ñirre forests are home to Huemules (South Andean Deer) and it’s not uncommon to spot one near the Ibáñez park entrance, just next to the Carretera Austral.

The hanging glaciers form lagoons with bright turquoise waters, giving even more colour and life to a unique landscape that already captivates visitors from around the world.

Open: From October to April
Area: 354,601 acres
Climate: Cold steppe and trans-Andean continental climate
Rainfall: 36.5 inches annually
Ecosystem: Deciduous Forest, Evergreen Mountain and Steppe
Founded: June 19, 1970

Suggested Places of Interest and/or Activities

See the impressive Cerro Castillo massif, which can be photographed from one of the lookout points along the Carretera Austral.
Do the trekking circuit that starts in Las Horquetas and travels around the massif to Laguna Cerro Castillo, finally ending at the Neozelandés campsite.
Visit Laguna Cerro Castillo and take in its intense turquoise color.
Look for Huemules (South Andean Deer), which can be spotted from the Carretera Austral.
Take photos of Laguna Chiguay in fall, when the Lenga forests surrounding it turn red.

Note: The information above is supplied by the Tomkins Foundation.

Although the main access to see the face of the large San Rafael Glacier is by catamaran from Puerto Chacabuco, which is 79km west from Coyhaique, it is also possible to enter the Laguna San Rafael National Park from Puerto Tranquilo.

You need to drive Route X-78, which reaches the park 51km west of Puerto Tranquilo (which is approximately 230km south from Coyhaique), and offers gorgeous views of forests, rivers, dozens of waterfalls, hanging glaciers, and snowy peaks. Walk across the Exploradores Glacier (with the right equipment and guide).

Take Route X-78 to Monte San Valentín (12,830 feet above sea level), the highest peak in Patagonia.

Open: Year-round
Area: 4,305,683 acres
Climate: Rainy and temperate; polar at altitude
Rainfall: 120 to 200 inches annually
Ecosystem: Evergreen forest, high-mountain forest, and periglacial shrubland
Founded: June 17, 1967

Note: The information above is supplied by the Tomkins Conservation Foundation.

Carretera Austral, Aysen,
North to South Destinations, Sector 2

Introduction

The southern part of the Carretera Austral starts at Coyhaique, in the Aysen Region of Chile and continues south for 571km until it reaches the smallest of villages called Villa O’Higgins.

This entire sector of the Carretera Austral passes through some of the remotest areas on Earth, and with that, some of the most inspiring, natural and dramatic scenery too.

The Aysen Fjords and Channels

The Aysen sector of the Carretera Austral includes one of the largest expanses of channels and fiords on Earth. In a straight line, start to end, it covers 1,000km, however, the total coastline of the numerous islands, inlets and fjords, if measured and added together, would be more than 84,000km.

If you had the patience to count, there are over 5,500 islands in this part of Chilean Patagonia, the vast majority totally uninhabited by man.

This incredible archipelago, fiords and valleys were crafted from numerous ice ages. Constant snow falls created huge glaciers that slowly came down from the mountains carving out the rock as they did so and leaving behind valleys. Think of Antarctica today, with its ice shelf measuring kms in height!

Then, added to this mix was the shifting of the tectonic plates that caused land to go up, but also down; volcanic eruptions, and flooding from the Pacific Ocean into the lower land areas.

And, if that was not enough, the receding glaciers and snow melted to form rivers and lakes, together with abundant rainfall creating numerous more rivers all flowing quickly into the sea.

This combination has resulted in, today, a beautiful ecosystem and dramatic landscape, full of natural richness.

Villa O’Higgins, Carretera Austral, Patagonia Chile

Introduction

This is literally “the end of the road”! If you make it here, you will have arrived to the most southern village on road-connected Chile. The settlements further south, such as Puerto Natales and Punta Arenas cannot be reached by road without driving through Argentina.

One of the main attractions here is a navigational visit to the Glacier O’Higgins – a very large glacier coming down from the Southern Ice Field. However, this trip is dependent on the local weather conditions. Apart from that there are some trekking trails and lakes to visit.

However, there is a great satisfaction that comes with the fact that you are in one of the remotest paces on Earth at the end of the Carretera Austral and at the end of the road of mainland Chile. To cherish this reality, it is worth spending a few days here, just for that.

From Villa O’Higgins is is possible to get into El Chalten in Argentina, but only “by foot”, that is to say you cannot drive. More information about this is below.

El Chalten, Argentina

For those who do not have their own vehicle and wish to continue to El Chalten this is possible, but totally dependent on the local weather situation. If the weather is good and the boat is running, you can take a boat that will navigate down the fiord to Candelria Mancilla. This is the Chilean border post that you will go past before entering into Argentine territory. From here the journey is either on horseback, or by foot to the Laguna del Desierto and on to El Chalten. The trip will take at least 24hrs, so an overnight on the way will be required and the best place is the lodge beside Laguna del Desierto called Aguas Arriba.

Caleta Tortel, Carretera Austral, Patagonia, Chile

Introduction

194km South of Puerto Guadal

Made famous when Prince William of the British Royal family spent a few months of his gap year working here, Caleta Tortel is an incredibly small settlement with simple buildings of natural timber construction set upon wooden stilts on the hill sides. There are no roads or streets in the usual sense, but a series of interconnected wooden boardwalks between houses and areas. The combined length of all the boardwalks is 7km.

The village is located between the Northern and Southern Patagonian icefields that cover the Andes. This combined area of snow, ice and glaciers covers around 4,000k2 of mountain tops. Here, is also the place where Chile’s most powerful river, the River Baker, enters into Pacific waters together with the rivers of the Bravo, Pascua and Huemules, which, together create a network of channels and inland waterways containing glacial-melt, fresh water.

Historically, the Kawesquar, indigenous people occupied this area, using their canoes carved from tree trunks to navigate the channels, fiords and islands in Southern Patagonia. This is not lost on the people of Caleta Tortel and there are many wood-carved sculptures of the Kawesquar people and their canoes at various places, especially the plazas, around the village.

The village was officially founded in 1955 and was only accessible by water until 2003. However, these days the Carretera Austral Road has arrived to Tortel and access is also by vehicle.

It can be considered a “quaint” village, or to some, a rather “backward” settlement where locals appear to have no concern for the local environment, often throwing waste literally “out of the window”.

However, it is totally unique and for this reason it merits a visit and is also a good logistical stop off.

The location of the village, beside the mouth of the River Baker and in a forested-sided fiord, makes for pretty surroundings. If you stay for a couple of days, it is possible to visit Jorge Montt Glacier, the “Isla de los Muertos”, Steffen Glacier and trek the La Bandera Hill.

Car Park

Visitors must park their cars in the car park located at the entrance to the village and from here you will need to walk to your hotel, which can be up to 2km. Therefore, any guests staying overnight need to take only a small bag with you to your accommodation and not try to carry or pull any suitcases with you.

Valle Chacabuco, Patagonia National Park, Carretera Austral, Patagonia, Chile

Introduction

This valley entrance is approximately 38km south of Puerto Guadal and is within the Patagonia National Park. It is accessed by turning left, where sign posed, about 24km before entering Cochrane (Cochrane is 62km south of Puerto Guadal).

The Park covers an area of 304,527 sq2 hectares and was declared a National Park in October 2018. Like Pumalin National Park, this area was donated to the Chilean state by the Thompkins Conservation Foundation, in 2017. Its aim is to protect and preserve ecosystems within central Patagonia as well as endangered wildlife populations such as “Huemul” and the Puma. These efforts have been applauded internationally as an example of how to preserve grasslands and reintroduce key animal and plant species.

Parque Nacional Patagonia (Valle Chacabuco)

Access: Valle Chacabuco (north of Cochrane)

Vast valleys sculpted by the Chacabuco River form a natural corridor that, since ancient times, has been used for travel both by nomadic peoples and a large diversity of fauna. Once the site of big cattle ranches, today the grasslands have begun to recover after a century of overgrazing and are now home to one of the highest levels of biodiversity in the Aysén region.

This is Patagonian steppe in all its splendour––mountain ranges, Lenga and Ñirre forests that burst with red in fall, active wildlife, and dozens of spectacular lagoons and lakes, such as Cochrane and Jeinimeni, which nourish these landscapes of overwhelming beauty. All this helps to tell the story of one of the most important ecosystem restoration projects in the country.

Open: Year-round
Area: 752.502 acres
Climate: Cold steppe and trans-Andean continentalRainfall: 8 inches annually
Ecosystem: Patagonian steppe, deciduous forest, wetlands, high mountain
Founded: December 11, 2018

Suggested Places of Interest and/or Activities

Drive the scenic Route X-83 toward Roballos Pass.
Hike the Lagunas Altas Trail in the Chacabuco Valley.
Take in the vastness of Lake Cochrane from the Douglas Tompkins Lookout Point or from one of the Tamango trails.
Visit the confluence of the Baker River––the river with the largest water volume in Chile––and the Chacabuco River.
Cross the 330-foot-long footbridge over the Chacabuco River and the footbridge found in the Avilés Valley.
Birdwatch at the various lagoons in the Chacabuco Valley.
Walk through the Lenga forests in fall.
Take a boat along the Cochrane River.
Apreciar la belleza del Lago Jeinimeni (Km. 65, Ruta X-753)
Visit the “Piedra Clavada”- a 130-foot-tall volcanic rock formation, and the Moon Valley in Jeinimeni (Route X-753, mile 15 / kilometer 25).

Lake General Carrera, Carretera Austral, Patagonia, Chile

Introduction

Lake General Carrera, located 356km south of Coyhaique, is the largest lake in Chile which also crosses into Argentina, whereupon it becomes known as Lake Buenos Aires.

On its south-eastern shore is the village of Chile Chico; on its north-west shore is the Puerto Rio Tranquilo (from where the boats depart to see the marble caves); and around its south-western sector is the village of Puerto Guadal. It is around here where most of the accommodation is located.

Puerto Guadal

Puerto Guadal is a small village located beside an inlet on the south-western shore of Lake General Carrera, 115km directly west from Chile Chico.

The geography on the way to this part of the Carretara Austral, that is to say between Villa Cerro Castillo to Puerto Guadal, is “typical” Patagonia. For example, jagged mountain peaks interspersed with glaciers and snow coverings, cascading waterfalls, forested valley sides, meandering rivers, remnants of forests devastated by volcanic eruptions and, in places, turquoise-coloured lakes and rivers.

What’s Here?

In this area are opportunities to trek into the past and discover millennial fossils, trek atop of glaciers (with guides and proper equipment), go up rivers and creeks in a high-speed jet boat, fly fish on the Baker River, lakes and rivers, visit the natural marble “cathedral” caves at Puerto Rio Tranquilo, or just relax and take in the tranquillity of the remoteness.

This is definitely an area that merits a stop off for a few nights if you really want to enjoy what is on offer here.

Accommodation Carretera Austral, Aysen, Sector 2, Patagonia

Introduction

The accommodation styles in the Aysen Region of Chile, where the southern sector of the Carretera Austral passes through varies from hotel to lodge, rustic lodge and luxury lodge.

Here at Experience Chile, we try to know, first-hand, as many accommodation options as possible.

We do not, and cannot, depend on what is published in the internet because property feels that they are “the best”, which often, is just not the case.

We carry out regular inspection visits with a view to knowing what the accommodation on offer is really like. In many situations we stay overnight in order to get as good idea as possible about what it is like to stay overnight in a particular hotel, lodge or cabin.

You will see in this accommodation section that we have divided the accommodation options in a way that we feel best categorises each accommodation option. In addition we have stipulated if the property has been “inspected” and / or “approved” by us. If a hotel has not been inspected, it means only that. If a place has not received our “approved” label it just means that we do not feel we cannot “overly recommend” that place, but it may be perfectly good.

Self-Drive the Carretera Austral, Puerto Montt to Coyhaique, Patagonia

Carretera Austral, Self-Drive, North to South, Puyuhuapi to Coyhaique

Route Option 1 Puyuhuapi to Puerto Chacabuco:

Total: 204km

Puyuhuapi Puyuhuapi Lodge C Park National Park Queulat Villa Amengual Villa Mañihuales Puerto Aysen Puerto Chacabuco

Route Description

Puyuhuapi to Queulat National Park - 21km from the village, or 8km from Puyuhuapi Lodge car park.

Upon departing from Puyuhuapi, and when you are back on the main Carretera Austral Road, again heading south, the entrance to Queulat National park will be on your left. This will be 21km south of Puyuhuapi village or 8km south from the Puyuhuapi Lodge car park.

The National Park Queulat is one for the main attractions in this area because it contains an impressive hanging glacier. The best way to see this is to be staying in the area and do a full day excursion into the Park.

Puerto Cisnes (Optional Detour)

From Puyuhuapi village the road will continue south for about 83km to a turn off where there will be a sign RIGHT to Puerto Cisnes.

Puerto Cisnes is a small fishing village located 35km from this turn off, on the western coast of Patagonian Chile. It is a non-descript place, but if you seek to see some real life that is NOT made for the tourists then this place will give you that option. Basic accommodations and very rustic. However, it is also the embarkation point to go over and see the Parque Nacional Isla Magdalena.

Ignoring Puerto Cisnes

On to Coyhaique (with Puerto Chacabuco Option)

Ignoring the turn right to Puerto Cisnes, continue onward to Villa Amengual (34km from the turn off to Puerto Cisnes), on a paved road, and then a further 40km on paved road will bring you the main junction that meets the road to Coyhaique (turn left) and Puerto Aysen (turn right). If you want to get to Puerto Chacabuco for the catamaran to see Glacier San Rafael, you need to turn right to Puerto Aysen.

Puerto Chacabuco is also about 14km south from Puerto Aysen. Considering its geographical location, at the eastern end of the Aysen fiord, it is well protected from the natural elements.

Glacier San Rafael Catamaran Navigation

It is the place from where the catamaran operates to take people to see the large San Rafael Glacier.

The navigation tales around 5hrs by catamaran (or few a days by boat from Puerto Montt, see our Patagonia Cruises, Crucero Skorpios itinerary). To fly over the glacier takes 1hr 30min by light aircraft from Coyhaique, Balmaceda airport.

The National Park, called Parque Nacional Laguna San Rafael, covers an area of 1,742,000 hectares and includes the Glacier San Rafael which, as it slowly recedes back from the sea, breaks off into huge icebergs that float in the San Rafael Lagoon. The size of the glacial wall and the massive chunks that break off draws travellers from all over the world. All boats pass between the archipelago channels and passengers can enjoy a beautiful scenic journey going to and returning from the glacier.

Route Option 2 Puyuhuapi to Coyhaique Direct

Total: 209km

Puyuhuapi Puyuhuapi Lodge C Park National Park Queulat Villa Amengual Villa Mañihuales Coyhaique

Route Description

The route from Puyuhuapi is the same up to the turn off that takes you to Puerto Cisnes. Therefore, we will start from this turn off for the trip direct down to Coyhaique.

Ignoring the turn right to Puerto Cisnes, continue onward to Villa Amengual (34km from the turn off to Puerto Cisnes), on a paved road, and then a further 40km on paved road will bring you the main junction that meets the road to Coyhaique. To get to Coyhaique turn left and 70km later you will arrive there.

Coyhaique

This is the principal city of this region and offers itself as a base from which to explore this incredible zone. It is also the only city with an airport with connections to Puerto Montt (and sometimes with Punta Arenas), although the actual airport is called Balmaceda and is about 50km from Coyhaique.

The scenery around Coyhaiqe is like that the Mid-Western USA. Enormous mountainous ridges as well as plains. It has a “cowboy” feel to the place and, indeed it is a Chilean “cowboy” town in the heart of Patagonia.

If you are only covering the northern part of the Carretera Austral Coyhaique will be the end destination. However, if you have arrived to Coyhaique or just extending your trip then from here you will head further south.

Carretera Austral, Self-Drive, North to South, Caleta Gonzalo to Puyuhuapi, with Optional Futaleufu

Caleta Gonzalo to Futaleufu

Total: 216km

Caleta Gonzalo Chaiten Santa Lucia Futaleufu

Futaleufu to Puyuhuapi

Total: 200km

Futaleufu Santa Lucia La Junta El Pangue Puyuhuapi Village

Route Description

The first part is Caleta Gonzalo to El Chaiten, which is 60km. Initially the road is unpaved, passing through native forests full of birds. Towards the end of the unpaved part the road becomes paved, passing close to the coast where the steep-sided hills come down to black, volcanic-sand beaches and where, also, the forest comes down to the water’s edge.

El Chaiten is where you can fill up with fuel for the car and maybe rest and have some food. The village used to be a good stop over place, however, in 2008 a nearby volcanic eruption caused a mud slide that wiped out one part of the village and the residents were told to evacuate. Today some residents returned and there are minimal services. The evidence of the ash mud slide covering buildings is still viewable today.

It is also the entrance point to get to Parque Nacional Corcovado.

Villa Santa Lucia to Futaleufu

Total: 78km

Route Description

Villa Santa Lucia is a tiny settlement, which after considerable heavy rainfall, suffered a landslide to its most northern-located buildings in 2016. In reality, just before coming to the village of Santa Lucia the road you will be on is split between carrying on to La Junta or turning left to Futaleufu.

In this scenario you will take the left turn to Futaleufu. The road will be unpaved for 19km to Puerto Ramirez. During this route you will see Lake Yelcho on the left and the forested hills either side. From Puerto Ramirez the road will continue unpaved for 59km until you arrive to Futaleufu. However, once past the end of Lake Yelcho the road will start to climb and will continue to do so until you arrive at Futaleufu.

Futaleufu Places of Interest

Futaleufu is very close to the Argentine border, and about 250km north from Coyhaique and approx 80km directly east from Chaiten this is a small village nestled in a valley surrounded by mountains. It is a “Mecca” for white-water rafting enthusiasts because it is the access point for the Futaleufu river, offering one of the wildest rafting experiences on Earth. It is also a great place for fly-fishing and generally relaxing amid a vast area of undisturbed natural beauty.

Caleta Gonzalo to La Junta

Total: 214km

Villa Santa Lucia to La Junta

Total: 76km

Caleta Gonzalo Chaiten Santa Lucia La Junta

Route Description

Villa Santa Lucia is a tiny settlement, which suffered a landslide to its most northern-located buildings in 2016 after considerable heavy rainfall. The main Carretera Austral Road by-passes Villa Santa Lucia, leaving the small settlement to the left. Therefore, you just continue straight ahead on the one road for 76km to La Junta. The sector about 10km or so before arriving to La Junta is paved road.

Caleta Gonzalo to Puerto Raul Marin Balmaceda

Total: 292km

Villa Santa Lucia Puerto Raul Marin

Total: 154km

Caleta Gonzalo Chaiten Santa Lucia Raul Marin Balmaceda

Route Description

However, before arriving to La Junta you will cross over an orange-coloured, modern bridge that crosses over the “Rio Palena”. Almost immediately after crosses this bridge there will be a sign directing you RIGHT to Puerto Raul Marin. From this turn off it will be about 73km to Puerto Raul Marin on an unpaved road.

Caleta Gonzalo to Puyuhuapi

Total: 260km

Caleta Gonzalo Chaiten Santa Lucia La Junta El Pangue Puyuhuapi Village

Route Description

Carretera Austral, Self-Drive, North to South, Puerto Montt or Puerto Varas to Caleta Gonzalo

Carretera Austral North to South Sector 1

Puerto Montt (or Puerto Varas) to Coyhaique

Stage A

Start: Puerto Montt (or Puerto Varas) - End: Caleta Gonzalo (Parque Pumalin)

This stage is broken into these legs:

First Leg – Puerto Montt or Puerto Varas to Puelche
Second Leg – Puelche to Hornopiren
Third Leg – Hornopiren to Caleta Gonzalo

There are two routes in which to get to Puelche. One is from Puerto Montt and the other is from Puerto Varas. One is shorter than the other, and one is more picturesque than the other. Here, below, we explain both options.

Route Option 1 Puerto Montt to Puelche:

Total: 45km plus 1 Ferry of 30mins

Puerto Montt La Arena

Route Description

This sector is quite straightforward. You take the paved road, the Carretera Austral Ruta 7, south from Puerto Montt to La Arena. It is a 45 km trip bordering the coast with the sea on your right.

At the start of your journey, you will see in the distance, in front and to your left, an impressive horizon of high mountain peaks, which is basically the southern part of the Andes Mountain chain. This is where you are headed as you drive down the Carretera Austral, navigating the valleys, channels and fiords in between the mountains you are looking at.

Route Option 2 Puerto Varas (located 22km north of Puerto Montt) to Puelche

Total: 166km

Puerto Varas Ensenada Ralun Ensenada Cochomo Puelo Puelche

Route Description

If you are not already at Puerto Varas then you can drive the short 22km north from Puerto Montt and you will be there.

Out of Puerto Varas village follow the southern side of Lake Llanquihue (pronounced yan-kee-way) to Ensenada for 50km (paved road). Along this route you will see the lake on your left and the high, perfectly conically-formed, snow-capped Osorno volcano at the far end. At Ensenada you follow the signs to Ralun (33km on paved road). This route passes through native forest and is very pretty.

At Ralun you continue on the southern side of the long and narrow Estuary de Reloncavi to Cochomo (15km paved road). From Cochomo follow the route to Puelo (32km unpaved road). After Puelo it is then 36km on an unpaved road to Caleta Puelche. Total distance from Puerto Varas to Puelche is 166km, so this will take around 3hrs or so and longer if you stop of pictures and any walk abouts.

Hornopiren to Caleta Gonzalo (Parque Pumalin)

Total: 5hrs with ferry crossings considered plus a 10km drive.

Note: Please check ferry departure times because they are subject to change without notice. Also get to the ferry ramp early because there is a limit to the number of cars allowed on the ferry.

Hornopiren (Ferry 4hrs) Leptepu (10km) Fiordo Lago (Ferry 45mins) Caleta Gonzalo

Route Description

The first part of this route is on the ferry from Hornopiren to Leptepu, which will take around 4hrs. Departures at 10:30hrs and later at 12:00hrs per day. The scenery along this navigation is of forested hill sides and inlets.

The next part is a short drive from Leptepu to Fiordo Largo, which is 10km on an unpaved road and through a forest. At Fiordo Largo you take another ferry to Caleta Gonzalo, which will take around 45mins.

Departures are at 14:45hrs, at 15:35hrs, at 16:45hrs and 17:30hrs during the high season (but check prior to departure).

Places of Interest and Activities, Between Puerto Montt and Coyhaique, Carretera Austral, Patagonia

Where? Puyuhuapi Lodge

Along the Carretera Austral there are a few places where water has been heated by underground volcanic heat and then surfaces to ground level. Such locations are called “hot springs”.

However, one particular place has mastered access to this natural heated water in one of the remotest places on the Carretera Austral and built a high-quality lodge here. The ability to bathe in the hot springs and enjoy total comfort in a tranquil, beautiful location is excellent for anyone’s health.

Where from? See below...

Patagonia is one of the World’s greatest places for fly fishing. This is due to the vast number of rivers, lakes and lagoons and the fact that this area is still relatively new in terms of numbers of people coming here to fish.

There are large fish to be caught, usually under catch and release. Among the varieties are Rainbow, Brown and Brook trout, as well as Atlantic salmon (these have come out from Chilean agua programs), Coho salmon and Chinook salmon.

Above are a few of the principal destination places where you can fly fish. However, there are also numerous other lodges spread around Patagonia in remote locations. If you are a serious fly-fisherman and seek such lodges, please get in touch and we will arrange whatever you need.

Parque Nacional Isla Magdalena, Carretera Austral, Patagonia, Chile

Introduction

Access: From Puerto Cisnes (by boat only)

Isla Magdalena’s rugged landscapes, deep ravines, and coastal bluffs make it an ideal environment for species such as Penguins, Cormorants, Sea Lions, and Huillines (Southern River Otters).

Situated between the Chilean continent and the Guaitecas Archipelago, in Río Cisnes, Isla Magdalena is one of the largest islands to the south of Chiloé. 80% of its surface is protected land. At the center of the island, the peak of Mentolat Volcano stretches 5,446 feet above sea level amongst the exuberant flora of the northern Patagonia cordillera.

Parque Nacional Melimoyu, Carretera Austral, Patagonia, Chile

Introduction

Access: From Puerto Raul Marin Balmaceda (sea navigation required)

Along Melimoyu’s coasts, the Blue Whales are the protagonists. It’s estimated that 10% of the world’s population of cetaceans migrate to the Corcovado Gulf during the Southern Hemisphere summer to feed on Krill.

Dozens of rivers flow from the area’s glaciers into its channels and fjords, bringing organic material from the forests and bogs and giving life to an aquatic ecosystem rich with biodiversity where an abundance of wildlife makes its home.

This pristine habitat in Cisnes features incredible landscapes dominated by the imposing Melimoyu Volcano (which means “four pieces” in Mapudungún). It was once considered to be a possible entry point to the mythical, and perhaps enchanted, City of the Caesars.

Parque Nacional Queulat, Carretera Austral, Patagonia, Chile

Introduction

Access: Queulat (south of Puyuhuapi)

Queulat means “Sound of Waterfalls” in the Chono people’s language. This park was first seen in the eighteenth century by Jesuits searching for the mythical City of the Caesars. Today, Queulat National Park, near Puyuhuapi, is admired by thousands of visitors each year, who are attracted by its beautiful evergreen and Andean Patagonian forests, its waterfalls, fjords, jagged rock walls, abundant rivers, and famous hanging glacier or “Ventisquero Colgante”, which can be spotted from the Carretera Austral.

Parque Nacional Corcovado, Carretera Austral, Patagonia, Chile

Introduction

Access: Chaiten

The park was created thanks to Tompkins Conservation’s generous donation of more than 207,570 acres and to the incorporation of national parklands. It features vast expanses of untouched, unexplored land, including hidden corners of the Corcovado Golf and Tic Toc Bay, in Chaitén.

Parque Nacional Pumalin, Carretera Austral, Patagonia, Chile

Introduction

Access: Caleta Gonzalo

The park’s most notable feature is the threatened Alerce (Fitzroya) tree––25 percent of Chile’s remaining Alerces can be found in this National Park. These ancient trees’ 3,000 years of life help to tell a timeless story of this pristine ecosystem, tucked in the Palena Province.

Parque Nacional Hornopiren, Carretera Austral, Patagonia, Chile

Introduction

Access: Hornopiren

Hornopirén National Park, (means “snow oven” in Mapudungún), forms part of the regional ecosystem of evergreen temperate rainforests. It is known for its rich biodiversity, high levels of endemic species, and thousands-of-years-old trees. This park is part of the World Biosphere Reserve of Temperate Rainforests of the Austral Andes. It features nearly 22,240 acres of Alerce trees.

The Hornopirén Volcano, although not within park limits, crowns this landscape of mountain valleys sculpted by snowdrifts, lakes, lagoons, and rivers such as the Puelo Chico, the Ventisquero, and the Blanco, which flows into the Comau Fjord, in Huailahué.

Parque Nacional Alerce Andino Carretera Austral, Patagonia, Chile

Introduction

Access: Puerto Montt

The trees of Alerce Andino National Park come from an old and storied lineage. This regional ecosystem remained isolated from the glaciers that covered the area 12 thousand years ago.

Today, its forests are a global icon of endemic fauna––one in three species in this forest is not found anywhere else on the planet. Vertical walls of granite surround the park’s fifty or so lagoons, and its rugged geography has long protected millennia-old Alerce (Fitzroya) trees that grow over more than half of the park’s surface. This priceless ecosystem can be found south of Lake Chapo and is classified as a Biosphere.

Carretera Austral, North to South, Sector 1, Puerto Montt to Coyhaique, Patagonia

Chile’s Lake Region is a stunningly beautiful collection of lakes, snow-capped volcanoes, rivers and green-forested mountain valleys.

Puerto Montt and Puerto Varas, the optional, northern, starting points for the Carretera Austral, are located in the southern edge of the main Lake Region, by the large Lake Llanquihue (pronounced yan-kee-way). The Carretera Austral then passes through a more “rugged” and “less serene” lake region sector. This is because, unlike the main lake region, the ancient valleys have been flooded by sea water tens of thousands of years ago, where those valleys are now fiords. Also, the space that the Carretera occupies is along a narrow strip where either side are steep, forested mountain sides. There are lakes in this sector but spread around and located at varying altitudes. In addition, the rivers tend to be faster flowing and the ice fields on top of the Andes are closer to ground level. The reason for this is because the Andes and snow line are lower in altitude the further south one goes. The snow line decreases in altitude because the overall temperature decreases the further one gets away from the equator.

The Aysen province contains more islands, fiords, inlets, rivers, ice fields and waterfalls than the northern Lake Region. This is because as the Carretera Austral continues south it passes through areas that endured more “ice age craftsmanship”, in the sense that more fiords, inlets, channels were “gouged” out in this area. Largely because as the road gets further away from the equator the climate is cooler, snow fall, over the millennia was more plentiful and glaciers were created with more mass.

Below we highlight the main National Parks, places of interests and activities to be found in Sector 1.

Where? Puyuhuapi Lodge

Along the Carretera Austral there are a few places where water has been heated by underground volcanic heat and then surfaces to ground level. Such locations are called “hot springs”.

Where from? See below...

Carretera Austral, Lake Region to Aysen, North to South Destinations, Sector 1

Destinations in the Aysen Region

If you had the patience to count, there are over 5,500 islands in this part of Chilean Patagonia, the vast majority totally uninhabited by man.

Then, added to this mix was the shifting of the tectonic plates that caused land to go up, but also down; volcanic eruptions, and flooding from the Pacific Ocean into the lower land areas.

El Pangue, North of Puyuhuapi, Carretera Austral, Patagonia, Chile

Introduction

Located: 28km South from La Junta and 18km North of Puyuhuapi village.

The drive from La Junta towards Puyuhuapi cuts through the natural, untouched forested valleys, crossing fast, and slow-moving, meandering rivers and past waterfalls. However, shortly before arriving to Puyuhuapi there is an accommodation option on the left, at a place called El Pangue, for which we have the link below.

This is a quiet “bubble” next to a lake, at the end of which, is the village of Puyuhuapi.

The Sector on the Way to Futaleufu, Patagonia, Chile

Coyhaique, Carretera Austral,
Patagonia, Chile

Introduction

Located: 232km South of Puyuhuapi Village (direct)

Coyhaique is a “proper city” in the middle of the Carretera Austral. It has an airport, called Balmaceda, located about 40km south of the city where daily flights come in from Santiago. However, allow a full hour for the drive from Coyhaique centre to the airport, due to curves in the early sector of the road and possibly slow traffic. For the Carretera Austral this is a principal entry and exit point. From here you can go either north or south on the Carretera.

It is very much a “Patagonian” city, where many people connected to cattle and sheep farming. The surrounding scenery is a mixture of dramatic, steep sided cliffs, valley plains, hills, forest as well as areas that resemble moor land in the UK.

In some parts of the city there is more of a feeling that this part of the World resembles the cattle country of the Mid-Western U.S.A.

What’s Here?

The city is located beside the River Simpson, which offers good trout fly-fishing. Nearby are three National Reserves: the Cerro Castillo, the Rio Simpson and the Coyhaique, where there are pumas and deer. There are trekking trails that pass close to the city, specifically the McKay trail. In the central sector of the city is a plaza where retailers sell ceramics and wool products. Not surprisingly, in a sector not far from the plaza is a “sheep monument” demonstrating the respect the locals have for this animal, as it provides a lot of work and income for the locals.

Puerto Chacabuco, Carretera Austral, Patagonia, Chile

Can't Miss

Walk across the Exploradores Glacier.
Drive Route X-78, which reaches the park 32 miles west of Puerto Tranquilo and offers gorgeous views of forests, rivers, dozens of waterfalls, hanging glaciers, and snowy peaks.
Take Route X-78 to Monte San Valentín (12,830 feet above sea level), the highest peak in Patagonia.
Cross Laguna San Rafael in boat to see the glacier and observe icefalls.
Visit Lake Los Leones, via the valley that shares its name.
Parques en la Región de Magallanes

San Rafael Glacier

The San Rafael Glacier comes down from the Northern Ice Field where it breaks off into sizeable icebergs that float in a sea-water lagoon. The glacial face is extremely high and quite wide. The catamaran that navigates from Puerto Chacabuco to the glacier takes a few hours to get to there, then, of course the same time back, therefore it is a long day. Snacks are served on board and once at the glacial face there is a decent amount of close-viewing time permitted. One of the additional benefits from this trip is the slow navigation through the quiet and picturesque channels, passing small and large uninhabited, forested islands.

Parque Nacional Laguna San Rafael

San Rafael’s magnificent landscapes are a mosaic of fjords, channels, islands, inlets, and ice. Declared a Biosphere Reserve, the park is the main port of entry to Chile’s Northern Icefields. The San Rafael Glacier attracts visitors from all over the world, who set out from Puerto Chacabuco or Puerto Tranquilo to admire its vast, untouched horizons and its biodiversity. Charles Darwin, Fitz Roy, and Alberto de Agostini are just a few of the historical figures who have helped spread the word about this wonderful hidden corner of Aysén.

Puerto Cisnes, Carretera Austral, Patagonia, Chile

National Park Isla Magdalena

Isla Magdalena’s rugged landscapes, deep ravines, and coastal bluffs make it an ideal environment for species such as Penguins, Cormorants, Sea Lions, and Huillines (Southern River Otters). Situated between the Chilean continent and the Guaitecas Archipelago, in Río Cisnes, Isla Magdalena is one of the largest islands to the south of Chiloé. 80% of its surface is protected land. At the center of the island, the peak of Mentolat Volcano stretches 5,446 feet above sea level amongst the exuberant flora of the northern Patagonia cordillera.

Queulat National Park, Carretera Austral, Patagonia, Chile

Introduction

Located: 32km South from Puyuhuapi Village

This National Park covers the forested mountains all the way from Puyuhuapi to an area past the Queulat Park entrance. The park itself is full of native trees and a glacier called Queulat Hanging Glacier, which is “hanging” in a valley between two sides of the lower Andes, whereupon the ice melt falls from a great height in a narrow, but strong waterfall. The accommodation we have below is located beside the fiord and only a few kms from the Park entrance.

Although the park can be visited during the day when driving the Carretera Austral way south, or north; to enjoy it fully, a stay of a couple of nights at the lodge near the park will allow visitors to “get into” the tranquillity and beauty of the natural nature in this area. From a base near the park, you will be able to walk the trails and enjoy a full day, or more, and then retreat back to the cosy comfort of your lodge for the night.

Parques en Región de Aysén

Parque Nacional Queulat

Queulat means 'Sound of Waterfalls' in the Chono people’s language. This park was first seen in the eighteenth century by Jesuits searching for the mythical City of the Caesars. Today, Queulat National Park, near Puyuhuapi, is admired by thousands of visitors each year, who are attracted by its beautiful evergreen and Andean Patagonian forests, its waterfalls, fjords, jagged rock walls, abundant rivers, and famous hanging glacier or «Ventisquero Colgante,» which can be spotted from the Carretera Austral.

Puyuhuapi, Carretera Austral,
Patagonia, Chile

Introduction

Location: 46km South from La Junta, but 18km south from El Pangue.

Puyuhuapi village occupies a narrow piece of land sandwiched between a lake and a sea-filled fiord. The village itself has a Germanic style regarding its buildings and general feel.

The village was founded when, in 1935, two Germans, Otto Uebel and Karl Ludwig settled here having escaped the looming Second World War in Europe. At this time Chile operated a colonization policy whereby those who were adventurous enough to move to “pioneer” country would be given land to make it productive and habitable.

They decided on a piece of land at the end of the Puyuhuapi fiord and with help from people who came from the island of Chiloe, and they began the process of cutting down virgin, native forest and constructing buildings as well as creating pastures for animals to graze. Unsurprisingly, these constructions were based upon those in their native Germany, which is why, in many parts of southern Chile so many buildings have an older, German appearance to them.

Two more Germans arrived, and these were Walter Hopperdietzel and Ernesto Ludwig. This small group of pioneers slowly, but surely, cut down the forest with their axes, machetes, and knives (no power tools in those days). However, the only access routes were via the sea, until the arrival of the Carretera Austral road during the late 80’s. More manpower came in from Chiloe and the settlement was recognised as an official “town” or village. To-day the population is between 50 to 1,000 inhabitants.

What’s Here?

Apart from the quiet, mystic setting, the principal places of interest are the hanging Queulat Glacier, about 21.5kms south of the village, and the Termas de Puyuhuapi, now called Puyuhuapi Lodge – a modern, upmarket hotel and hot springs spa, located on the opposite side of the fiord to where the Carretera Austral passes.

Access to the hotel is only by passenger ferry from a pick-up point beside the road at 12.8km south of Puyuhuapi. This is marked and on the right side of the road if you are heading north to south. Obviously, if you are heading south to north the entrance point is on your left 12.8km before getting to Puyuhuapi.

Puerto Raul Marin, Carretera Austral, Patagonia, Chile

Introduction

Located: 73km West from La junta

Puerto Raul is a tiny fishing village and a settlement of a few houses, located about 73km due west from La Junta. The road to get here is unpaved. This is a place for a “total cut off” from society and the “real World”. This is where there is no electricity at night, where the stars are bright, the bird song fills the morning air, and the gentle lapping of water are the only sounds that interrupt the stillness.

The village sits n the edge of the edge of the 204,000 acre Tic Toc Marine Park, home to pristine beaches and numerous varieties of marine life.

On the eastern side of the village is the Pitipalena Fiord where there are often dolphins, penguins and occasionally orcas. The fiord, which is home to the Palena river, flows directly into the Pacific Ocean.

The Palena River is known for its excellent salmon and trout fishing, but also offers great kayaking and rafting. In the distance is the Corcovado National Park covering 726,000 acres.

Parque Nacional Melimoyu

Access: From Puerto Raul Marin Balmaceda (sea navigation required)

Note: The information above is supplied by the Tomkins Foundation.

La Junta, Carretera Austral, Patagonia, Chile

Introduction

Located: 143km South from Futaleufu

La Junta is located more-or-less halfway down the Carretera Austral between Puerto Montt and Coyhaique. It sits on the edge of the National Lago Rosselot Reserve.

What’s Here?

As with many of the villages along the Carretera Austral, the principal attraction and activities revolve around nature. Therefore, here at La Junta there are opportunities for fly fishing as well walks into the forested areas. There is also the Tepaluma, artisan beer distillery to visit where you can try the “Kawiñ” beer.

Futaleufu, Carretera Austral,
Patagonia, Chile

Introduction

Located: 151km South-east from Chaiten

Futaleufu is situated up in the mountains only 10km from the border with Argentina and beside the famous Futaleufu river. It is a small village surrounded by mountains and unspoilt, natural beauty. It is well known as a base from which to raft the Futaleufu, one of World’s most challenging rivers for rafting down the rapids.

What’s Here?

Futaleufu offers a base from which to relax and enjoy mother nature in a very remote “corner” of the World. Typically, this is a place sought after by those wishing to pursue activities such as trekking, zip wire, horse-riding, bird watching, fly fishing, canyoning and white-water rafting.

The village is surrounded by nature. Apart from the famous Futaleufu river, known for its challenging white water rafting, there is also the Lonconao Lake and the Espolon river and lake, both of which are ideal for trout fishing.

Chaiten, Carretera Austral,
Patagonia, Chile

Introduction

Located: 66km South from Caleta Gonzalo

Chaiten is a small village founded in 1933 by the then President of Chile, Arturo Alessandri, with a view to “populating” the remote territory of Chile. In 2002 its population had grown to 4,625 inhabitants.

It is served by ferry from Quellon (92km south from Castro) Chiloe Island and light aircraft from Puerto Montt. The ferry takes cars and involves an overnight crossing with only half reclining seats for passengers to “sleep” in.

Volcanic Eruption

Unfortunately, in 2008, the village suffered from the aftermath of the eruption of the nearby Chaiten volcano. One result of this eruption was the explosion of volcanic ash into the atmosphere reaching Puerto Montt as well as being blown as far north and east as Buenos Aires, over 2,500km away. However, more locally the ash fell onto the surrounding forests and hills of Chaiten. This ash, combined with the nearby fast-flowing river and mixed together to create a “river of mud and ash” which broke its banks and flooded half the village, inundating houses and streets. Most of the residents were forced to leave the village and relocated to other places in Chile, however, since 2012 some people have returned.

The village has not totally recuperated but offers as a stop off for petrol (gas) and supplies. There are some simple bed and breakfast lodgings too.

What’s Here?

There is small museum, a trail up to the Chaiten volcano, as well as trails to the Alerces, the hidden waterfalls, and a place to see dolphins in the sea. If open there is also the “Termas el Amarillo”, 24kms south of Chaiten, where you can bathe in hot spring-filled pools. There are also, still visible, those houses saturated in volcanic ash and mud.

Parque Nacional Corcovado

The magnificent Corcovado Volcano stands 7,546 feet above sea level, welcoming visitors to this difficult-to-access, pristine ecosystem of evergreen forests, fjords, bays, rivers, deep valleys, and dozens of hidden lakes. The park was created thanks to Tompkins Conservation’s generous donation of more than 207,570 acres and to the incorporation of national parklands. It features vast expanses of untouched, unexplored land, including hidden corners of the Corcovado Golf and Tic Toc Bay, in Chaitén.

Caleta Gonzalo, Carretera Austral, Patagonia, Chile

What’s Here?

The Pumalin Park is the park created, and donated by Douglas Tompkins, (deceased) through the “Fundacion Pumalin”, to the Chilean nation in 2017. Douglas Tompkins made his fortune from the sale of the North Face (a company that he had started), and the Esprit clothing retail business (that he also started), and he used it to buy swathes of land in Chile and other South American countries with the ultimate aim of preserving these territories from any destruction or development.

The Park covers 402,392 sq2 hectares. Here, there are millennial-aged trees such as the Alerce, some dating back thousands of years. That reality on its own is quite “mind blowing” when you consider that it is possible to touch a living tree that started its life before the birth of Jesus Christ.

The Park is all about the natural world, an area devoid of development, aside from the small access that visitors have in order to enjoy this encounter with nature. The Park contains various trekking trails that allow penetration into the forest and to areas where you can see the hanging glaciers such as the Amarillo, the volcano Michimahuida and the Tabique hill as well as the Yelcho glacier.

Parque Nacional Pumalin Douglas Tompkins

The deep forests of Pumalín reach all the way to the fjords, creating one of the most spectacular coastlines on the planet. Hundreds of waterfalls cascade down from glaciers, falling over steep granite walls, as the Michinmahuida and Chaitén Volcanoes crown the landscape. The park’s most notable feature is the threatened Alerce (Fitzroya) tree––25 percent of Chile’s remaining Alerces can be found in this National Park. These ancient trees’ 3,000 years of life help to tell a timeless story of this pristine ecosystem, tucked in the Palena Province.

Hornopiren, Carretera Austral, Patagonia, Chile

What’s Here?

There is the Hornopiren National Park, containing the Hornopiren volcano at 1,572m, and the waterfalls of the River Negro. If you are able, and have the time, there are the natural hot springs of Cahuelmo, Porcelana, Pichicolo and if you can get on a boat there is Llancahue hot springs located on an island in the fiord.

However, in short, the village is surrounded by natural, native forest on steep mountain sides, and at the tip of the Comau fiord.

Parque Nacional Hornopiren

Hornopirén National Park, “snow oven” in Mapudungún, forms part of the regional ecosystem of evergreen temperate rainforests. It is known for its rich biodiversity, high levels of endemic species, and thousands-of-years-old trees. This park is part of the World Biosphere Reserve of Temperate Rainforests of the Austral Andes. It features nearly 22,240 acres of Alerce trees. The Hornopirén Volcano, although not within park limits, crowns this landscape of mountain valleys sculpted by snowdrifts, lakes, lagoons, and rivers such as the Puelo Chico, the Ventisquero, and the Blanco, which flows into the Comau Fjord, in Huailahué.

Puerto Montt, Carretera Austral, Patagonia, Chile

Introduction

Located: 1,025km south from Santiago

Located at the end of mainland Chile prior to the start of the Carretera Austral, Puerto Montt is also at the foot of Chile’s lake region. Served with regular, daily flights from Santiago with a flight time of around 2hrs, it is therefore an option for the first night prior to the start of your Carretera Austral adventure, or if you intend to venture out to explore Chiloe Island for the day and / or places such as Puerto Varas, only 22km away, and the Llanquihue lake.

Parque Nacional Alerce Andino

The trees of Alerce Andino National Park come from an old and storied lineage. This regional ecosystem remained isolated from the glaciers that covered the area 12 thousand years ago. Today, its forests are a global icon of endemic fauna––one in three species in this forest is not found anywhere else on the planet. Vertical walls of granite surround the park’s fifty or so lagoons, and its rugged geography has long protected millennia-old Alerce (Fitzroya) trees that grow over more than half of the park’s surface. This priceless ecosystem can be found south of Lake Chapo and is classified as a Biosphere.

Chiloe Island

Almost within “touching distance” so to speak, is the green and rural island of Chiloe, which is south west from Puerto Montt. If you have time to visit Chiloe, you will need a couple of nights minimum unless you want to do an “express” day trip. The drive time to Ancud to the north of the island is about 2hrs from Puerto Montt, which includes a 40min ferry ride. And, to Castro, the capital of the island, the drive time will be closer to 3hrs from Puerto Montt. Firstly, you need to drive to a place called Pargua, 60km south west from Puerto Montt and from where the many ferries depart for the crossing over to Chacao on Chiloe Island.

Jesuit Churches

Chiloe is known for is numerous Jesuit churches, entirely constructed from wood and covered in small wooden tiles. There are also marine animals such as penguins and sea lions to see on its western, Pacific coast and the picturesque, brightly-coloured houses on stilts around Castro.

What’s Here?

Apart from being the northern start point for the Carretera Austral, this is the embarkation port for the Navimag ferry that operates between Puerto Montt and Puerto Natales (for Torres del Paine), which also takes passengers. It also has a yacht marina and popular market called Angelmo, where small retailers sell hand-made textiles, food and wooden products.

Puerto Varas, Carretera Austral, Patagonia, Chile

Introduction

Located 22km north from Puerto Montt, Puerto Varas has a village atmosphere and style, situated by the large Llanquihue lake with direct views to the imposing snow-covered Osorno Volcano. If you decided to start the Carretera Austral from here, you would follow the southern side lake road before passing through a native forest and then pass by the shores of a pretty fiord to get to Puelo and then Hornopiren. Puelo is 125km from Puerto Varas and Hornopiren is a further 90km, therefore, the drive from Puerto Varas to Hornopiren is 215km, half of which is on unpaved road, which means slower average speed. The overall drive time would be around 3hrs, or more, if adding in stopping off time.

What’s Here?

Puerto Varas is one of a number of early settler villages, with a Germanic past. It is also a base from where you can explore the perimeter around the large Llanquihue lake, go halfway up the Osorno Volcano by car, to the ski centre, for spectacular long-distance panoramic views, visit the Vicente Perez Rosales National Park, see the powerful “Saltos de Petrohue” (waterfalls) and the emerald-coloured Petrohue lake.

On the north-western shores of Lake Llanquihue are the early settler, German-style villages of Frutillar and Puerto Octay. If you are into activities there is rafting on the River Petrohue, fly fishing, hiking and tree zip wire routes.

Accommodation Carretera Austral,
Sector 1, Puerto Montt to Coyhaique

Introduction

Most accommodation along the Carretera Austral will be in the lodge style. This is to say a construction of natural wood on the exterior and interior with soft, warm lighting, open fireplaces; and natural, woven materials often as part of the interior decoration. However, the level of lodge will vary between the very rustic, simple level right up to the top-end luxury level with those considered “in between” too. As well as lodges there are, in the main cities, the more traditional hotel-style options.

Here at Experience Chile, we make it part of our business to know as many accommodation options as possible at a personal level.

We do not, and cannot, rely on what is published on the internet (and nor should you) because every hotel, lodge and bed and breakfast feels that they are “the best”, which often, is just not the case.

We discover what a place is really like with regular inspection visits, ideally staying overnight in order to get as good idea as possible about the overall feeling that our clients may experience should they stay at that particular place.

We have categorised the accommodation options in a way that we feel best defines each hotel, as well as stipulate if the property has been “inspected” and / or “approved” by us. If a hotel has not been inspected, it means only that. If a place has not received our “approved” label it just means that we do not feel we cannot “overly recommend” that place, but it may be perfectly good.

South America Hotel Accommodation,
Category Definitions

Introduction

For us, the type of accommodation that one chooses to stay at during a holiday can make or break the overall travel experience. There is nothing worse than sleeping in a hotel that is not comfortable, clean, safe and that does not generate a “good” feeling.

In today’s world of web site, and social media, a hotel will publish only what is positive about their own property, omitting to say if the location of the hotel is close to a busy road, or night club, or if the rooms are in need of decoration and so on.

Also, hotels will only publish glowing comments about their own accommodation.

Yes, there are sometimes negative comments about a particular place, however, one never really knows if such comments are published by a competitor, or a recently fired member of staff.

ExperienceChile.Org Accommodation Category Definitions & Endorsements

For these reasons we, at ExperienceChile.Org, invest considerable time, money, and energy, in visiting as many accommodation options as humanly possible specifically with the aim to check up on what the quality of accommodation, and services are, and where these places are located.

Remember, a picture does NOT give you the whole story.

Our Offer

Today there are a number of “World Class”, top-end, luxury lodges, located in some of the most outstanding natural wildernesses on Earth, in Chile. Our offer to any of our clients is that should we included any of these lodges in your itinerary for a minimum of four nights, under an all-inclusive program, we will add in another service free of charge (min 2 people on the itinerary).

Not Inspected

If a hotel does not have an inspected “stamp”, it means just that. We have not yet inspected that property.

Not Approved

Should a hotel not have an “approved” stamp, it means one, or more of the following:

That, that particular property is not, in our view “supported” as one of our preferred partners, and / or that we have not yet stayed over at that particular property in order to evaluate comfort, services, sound pollution and location.

If Your Hotel is Not in our Partner Hotel Selection

If YOU have a particular hotel that you want and it is not in our partner hotel selection, please DO let us know, and provided it is a decent place, we will include it in the itinerary we are handling for you.

Our decision to include some hotels (or lodges) under our Premium definition is because in our view the hotel, or lodge, offers one, or more, of the following attributes: a unique view, a spectacular view, guest rooms are decorated and furnished to a high degree of comfort, and they emit a warm, clean, and cosy feeling.

Staff are professional, friendly, and knowledgeable. And, ultimately, that the overall hotel or lodge “end product” is markedly “superior” compared to other hotels in that destination.

A refugio is a hostel. Rooms are dormitories shared with other guests and beds are bunk beds. Guests can book a bed only and bring their own sleeping bag, or book a “cama armada”, which means a bed with bedding. A “cama armada” is available in all the refugios or simple beds + kit, which means a camp/like bed also with bedding. The full board meal plan is also offered at all refugios meaning hot dinner, breakfast and a lunch box to go or lunch at the refugio if you stay in. Refugios are 100% on the W and Circuit trek trails in Torres del Paine National Park.

Carretera Austral, Self-Drive, North to South, Puerto Guadal (Lake General Cerrera) to Caleta Tortel

Introduction

Carretera Austral North to South Sector 2

Stage B

This stage is broken into these legs:

First Leg: Puerto Guadal to Valle Chacabuco Entrance 50km

Puerto Guadal to Valle Chacabuco Entrance

Route Description

Potential Danger

River Baker Waterfall Confluence

Second Leg: Patagonia National Park & Valle Chacubuco To Caleta Tortel 153km

Patagonia National Park & Valle Chacubuco To Caleta Tortel

Cochrane

Caleta Tortel

Introduction

Carretera Austral North to South Sector 2

Stage A

This stage is broken into these legs:

First Leg: Coyhaique to Cerro Castillo

Coyhaique to Cerro Castillo

Route Description

From Balmaceda Airport

Cerro Castillo

Second Leg: Villa Cerro Castillo to Puerto Rio Tranquilo 122km

Villa Cerro Castillo to Puerto Rio Tranquilo

Route Description

Marble Caves

National Park Laguna San Rafael

Third Leg: Puerto Rio Tranquilo to Puerto Guadal 59km

Puerto Rio Tranquilo to Puerto Guadal

Route Description

Places of Interest & Activities in this Sector Include:

Activities

The Marble Caves

Jet Boat

Glaciers

Introduction

Sector 2 North to South Places of Interest & Activities

Cerro Castillo National Park

Access: Villa Cerro Castillo

Suggested Places of Interest and/or Activities

Helitours

Where? From Balmaceda airport (Coyhaique) and Tierra Luna, Puerto Guadal, General Lake Carrera.

Marble Caves (or "cathedral")

Where? At Puerto Rio Tranquilo, Lake General Carrera

National Park Laguna San Rafael

Patagonia Jet Boat

Where? At Tierra Luna, Puerto Guadal

Parque Patagonia (Trek in Valle Chacabuco)

Where? Valle Chacabuco

The Main Stop-Offs in Sector 2 are:

Introduction

The Aysen Fjords and Channels

Destinations in the Aysen Region South of Coyhaique

Villa O’Higgins, Carretera Austral, Patagonia Chile

Introduction

Places of Interest

Located from (approx. distances)

El Chalten, Argentina

Partner Hotels Villa O'Higgins

Caleta Tortel, Carretera Austral, Patagonia, Chile

Introduction

Car Park

Partner Hotels Caleta Tortel

Valle Chacabuco, Patagonia National Park, Patagonia, Chile

Introduction

Parque Nacional Patagonia (Valle Chacabuco)

Suggested Places of Interest and/or Activities

Partner Hotels Valle Chacabuco

Lake General Carrera, Carretera Austral, Patagonia, Chile

Introduction

Puerto Guadal

What’s Here?

Partner Hotels in the area around Puerto Guadal

Introduction

Sector 2: North to South

All Sector 2 Accommodation Destinations

Coyhaique Accommodation

Puerto Guadal Accommodation

Valle Chacabuco Accommodation